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Post by Peltigera on Mar 23, 2011 8:18:17 GMT -5
I have just bought two rangefinders (just rangefinders, not cameras) and one of them is way off. They are a Medis and a Watameter. The Medis is about right but the Watameter tells me the lamp post at the end of the road is 1.2 m away - nearer to 30 feet, actually.
Any advice on how I can adjust this - preferably without taking it abroad - would be much appreciated.
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PeterW
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Post by PeterW on Mar 23, 2011 11:13:44 GMT -5
Hi, and welcome.
I've got a Watameter in with a small collection of rangefinders but they're packed away at the moment so I can't look at it to check.
However, nearly all separate rangefinders used one plain and one semi-silvered mirror with a round or square "rangefinder" area in the middle of the view.
You should find two small screws somewhere on the casing. One is for adjusting the vertical angle of the mirror to bring the two images in line vertically. The second is for adjusting the horizontal angle of the mirror to adjust the distance reading.
The usual method of setting them up is to adjust the vertical image so the two line up, and then adjust the distance with the dial setting at infinity. They all had a fairly short base (except the Leica and Zeiss Ikon ones) so anything further away than about 40 feet, or 12 metres, can be used as "infinity".
Hope this helps. If not, I'll have a hunt for my rangefinders and check the Watameter.
PeterW
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Post by nikkortorokkor on Mar 23, 2011 12:38:22 GMT -5
Hi & welcome! If your Watameter looks like this: (Ii is a Watameter Super, but from Photos on the web,the I & II appear functionally the same) then the process is almost exactly as Peter has described except that adjustment is simplified by the provision 2 'extra' knurled knobs - no need for screwdrivers. Vertical adjustment is done via the knob on on the left of the meter (as you look through it). Horizontal adjustment (calibration) is done via the small knob in the centre of the main "measuring" knob. Usually the adjusting knob will have a "W" and the model name screen printed on it (I, II or Super). I find it easiest to calibrate rangefinders mounted to a tripod (via a camera in the case of accessory meters), but the Watameter can be calibrated 'freehand' thanks to those extra knobs. Michael.
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photax
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Post by photax on Mar 23, 2011 13:34:38 GMT -5
Welcome ! It`s that easy as Michael described it. I have three versions of this meter: A model 1 and two "Super". The one in the middle of the picture ( a early model ) has no knob for vertical adjustment. The Watameter 1 has the meter-range ( I have the German version ) printed on the dial knob, while the "Super"-models have the range additional inserted in the viewer. BTW the Watameters had been built by Edmund Wateler in Braunschweig Germany. MIK
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Post by Peltigera on Mar 23, 2011 14:06:00 GMT -5
I have the super. The knob on the left only turns very slightly - but vertical adjustment is ok. The other knob is too stiff to turn - I am somewhat cack-handed so do not like using force.
thjanks for the info.
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Post by nikkortorokkor on Mar 23, 2011 15:32:36 GMT -5
If your vertical adjustment is good, then you are well in luck. On my Watameter, the vertical adjustment is a bit too easily adjusted. First task before using is usually to re-align it.
The centre knob should be quite stiff to prevent accidental adjustment.
By coincidence, a couple of days ago I found my Watameter plus a few other accessories in a box in the garage.
I just tried recalibrating it and found that Edmund Wateler made things sensibly easy by making the adjustment knob and the measuring dial work in the same direction - left to right, small to big.
So, here are some detailed instructions.
A: Un-calibrating the meter (throw it out of whack) NOTE If your Watameter shows a 'ghost' image to the right of the 'solid' image of a distant object when set to infinity, you can skip the un-calibrating process. Go straight to step: 7 below.
1: Hold the meter facing away from you. 2: Turn Measuring dial all the way to the left (counter clockwise). 3 Grasp the adjustment knob between the thumb and index finger. 4: Turn the adjustment knob to the left, (counter clockwise). You only need to turn it a fraction, perhaps a 1/16th -1/8th of a turn.
Your Watameter should now be well out of adjustment.
5: Turn the measuring dial all the way to the right (clockwise) 6: Check adjustment by looking through the finder at an object at infinity (I find the neighbourhood TV ariels are ideal). You should see a 'ghost' image to the right of the 'solid' image.
If the 'ghost' image is to the left of the solid image, repeat steps 1 to 6.
B: Calibrate
7: Mount the meter on a camera (simply easier to hold). 8: Hold camera in left hand and grasp adjustment knob between thumb and index finger of right hand. 9: Look through meter at a distant object. 10: turn the adjustment knob to the right until 'ghost' and 'solid' images are perfectly aligned.
C: Check close Object
11: Set Meter to 3 feet or 1 metre. 12: Use Yard or Metre rule to double check your calibration (I sit the camera on a table, with meter fitted, and sit a square object 3 feet from it).
Done.
I repeat that the adjustment knob should be quite stiff, but it only needs to be turned a fraction to make a big difference.
Michael.
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PeterW
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Post by PeterW on Mar 23, 2011 16:52:49 GMT -5
Thanks, Michael, for expanding on what I wrote and the pictures. Without hunting fo rmy box of rangefinders and checking, I could'nt remember if the Watameter had small screws or knobs for adjustments.
PeterW
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Post by Peltigera on Mar 24, 2011 13:03:56 GMT -5
Michael, adjusting using your instructions is easy - thank you- but it is not working. The scale visible inside the rangefinder shows 2.5 meters when the adjusting knob is fully clockwise. If I turn the knob anti-clockwise, the scale shows successively lower numbers until the scale disappears - then the scale reappears at infinity. This is suggesting to me that someone has tried adjusting inside the device and bug messed up the alignment of the scale.
I shall have a look inside at the weekend when I am less tired.
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Post by nikkortorokkor on Mar 24, 2011 17:26:30 GMT -5
That does sound strange.
Turning the dial to the right (clockwise) should result in ascending numbers to infinity, a short blank, and then ascending numbers to infinity again, where the dial 'tops out'.
Turning counter clockwise will result in descending numbers until the short blank section appears, then it will start at infinity again and descend to about 32" (.8 M). At this point, of course, numbers in the window bear no resemblance to the actual distance measured. You need to refer to the auxillary 'close focus' numbers on the exterior of the dial itself.
Your rangefinder may well have been bu**ered around with.
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Post by johnerobertson on May 27, 2011 21:25:52 GMT -5
Anyone here have any knowledge of how to adjust the r/f in a Welta Belmira ? There is a hole with a srew behind just above the film gate. Another screw next to the rewind knob seems only to access the interior.
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photax
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Post by photax on May 28, 2011 2:00:45 GMT -5
Welcome John ! I did some research on the internet ( in German ), but unfortunately I found no information. I have two models of the Belmira in my collection, one made by Welta and one made by Belca and I must confess that I have no idea about the tiny screw above the film gate. All I found out is that at the Belca-made model the screw at the top plate next to the rewinding knob is missing, so I think this one drops out. MIK
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Post by johnerobertson on May 28, 2011 20:49:04 GMT -5
Welcome John ! I did some research on the internet ( in German ), but unfortunately I found no information. I have two models of the Belmira in my collection, one made by Welta and one made by Belca and I must confess that I have no idea about the tiny screw above the film gate. All I found out is that at the Belca-made model the screw at the top plate next to the rewinding knob is missing, so I think this one drops out. MIK Thanks for your reply, I also have two, on one the funny little prism behind the viewfinder window is missing. I will open it up, (nothing to lose ) and have a look at the mechanism! John.
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