daveh
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Post by daveh on Jan 29, 2012 19:13:15 GMT -5
Andy, just out of interest does the Sekonic allow you to measure incident and reflected light? Whatever claims are made for light meters there still needs to be some adjustment depending on the scene. Often the only way to obtain an evenly exposed image is with the help of a flash gun, or some other artificial light source. It's really easy now with modern cameras and their ETTL (or whatever) measurement. In the old days of manual everything it took quite a bit of thought, and experimentation, to get the correct balance.
I don't know Sprint Standard at all. I (probably unwisely) tried a few - ID-11, Acutol, Perceptol, Microphen and one or two others.
Wayne, I never did get round to trying the back-to-back method (at least not that I can recall). I thought about it, but I think I always felt it wasn't worth the risk of it not coming out right.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 29, 2012 22:37:51 GMT -5
Dave:
The only time I used the back-to-back method was on dupes. I never trusted it for originals. If you screwed up dupes you always could reshoot them.
Wayne
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Post by andys93integra on Jan 30, 2012 0:00:18 GMT -5
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daveh
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Post by daveh on Jan 30, 2012 18:01:34 GMT -5
Andy, thanks for the links. It'll be interesting to see how roll 2 comes out.
Dave.
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Post by andys93integra on Jan 30, 2012 20:26:48 GMT -5
I will probably be able to scan the two rolls on Wednesday (1 1/2 hour break between classes). I was only able to scan three frames of my new 120 roll from the Rolleiflex today. Usually with 35mm strips, one can put them in place and the scanner recognizes the film format and scans the frames accordingly, but this was not happening with my 6x6 film today. At first it was wrong because it was set to 6x4.5, I then switched it to 6x6 thinking that it would scan each frame independently, but it just gave me a scan that was three frames long. So I had to crop/select each frame and do one scan at a time, and after three frames I had to go to class. Anyway, here are the three frames: They are in the middle of the roll starting with frame 6 and going to frame 8. I noticed that I have been on a shallow depth of field, or "bokeh" binge lately. More to come. andysphotos.zenfolio.com/p87452811Andy
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Post by andys93integra on Feb 2, 2012 12:50:42 GMT -5
Here is the entire 120 roll of Delta 100 that I developed myself. In the process of scanning my second roll of 35mm, which is HP5+, will be up in a few. andysphotos.zenfolio.com/p87452811Andy
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Post by Peltigera on Feb 2, 2012 14:24:23 GMT -5
Now, isn't that a whole lot better than using digital?
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Post by andys93integra on Feb 2, 2012 18:53:05 GMT -5
Definitely a lot better in terms of how the image is made. Today I made my first contact print, and the feeling of actually seeing an image appear (that you actually exposed, developed, and now printed) was very gratifying. There is more of a connection to the these images than with digital.
Andy
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daveh
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Post by daveh on Feb 2, 2012 19:40:58 GMT -5
Andy, I would certainly say it's exciting. It can also be very frustrating. Have a go at colour enlarging without any of the modern aids and you will see what I mean. My generation has been lucky in the sense that when we started when things were still relatively crude, but we are finishing on a more sophisticated note. Whether it is better than digital depends on what you want to achieve, and how quick you want to achieve it.
Dave.
p.s. nice set of photos.
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Post by andys93integra on Feb 2, 2012 20:43:25 GMT -5
And here is the second roll from the Pentax, HP5+. We were told to shoot three frames for each subject, bracketing -1, 0, +1. Developed 1-9 for 10:00 andysphotos.zenfolio.com/p729363773Andy
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daveh
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Post by daveh on Feb 5, 2012 4:12:52 GMT -5
Andy,
You may already have found this out for yourself, or someone already shown you:
If you hold a B&W negative at an angle to the light and to your eye you can view it as as a positive rather than the negative that it is. It's best emulsion side up.
Dave.
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