mickeyobe
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Post by mickeyobe on Oct 16, 2012 13:00:40 GMT -5
Stephen,
Thank you for the detailed instructions on restoring leather to its original size.
Much appreciated.
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lloydy
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Post by lloydy on Oct 16, 2012 13:43:15 GMT -5
With real leather would you only apply the saddle soap to the outer surface, would it make it difficult or even impossible for the glue to stick to if applied to the inner surface ?
I remember when we bought a leather suite a few years ago it had pulled on the seams of a couple of the arms, and the manufacturer sent someone out who applied heat from a hair drier while pushing the leather in the direction it needed to go, and once it had stretched he took away the heat while keeping the stretch on the leather, and it worked. The pull on the seams had gone and it's never come back. Might be worth a try ?
I'm almost certain the 'Serious Glue' made by Evo-Stick is a new version of their old contact adhesives, it's exactly the same to apply and seems to have the same properties - it allows positioning etc. My guess is it's a rebranding excercise.
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Stephen
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Post by Stephen on Oct 16, 2012 14:29:48 GMT -5
Only on the outside, but it does not make might difference to the glue, do not cake it on, just a cloth rub, and polish away. It just seals the surface. The glue that will not mind the waxes is Gorilla, that adheres to anything! Warming leather will stretch , but does dry it out, and risks more shrinking later. Seat leather is far thicker, and room moisture would keep it supple. Stephen.
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Post by Rachel on Oct 16, 2012 15:51:35 GMT -5
Much to think about Thanks all very much. The two panels I have removed are just some kind of plastic sheet; no cloth backing. I did try a little UHU (solvent free) Universal Adhesive on a lifted edge but I think that I was a little impatient with it and didn't give it time to set. The shrinkage on the back panel is very slight and I think that I can live with it if I can just get it neat. The old adhesive I worked off with my thumb; it rolls up with a little persuasion and can be picked off. There a couple of large DIY superstores locally which I will try.
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Stephen
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Post by Stephen on Oct 16, 2012 16:11:24 GMT -5
The dreaded words "Solvent Free" means a water based adhesive, no guts, no grip, although the better branded contact adhesive versions are just about all right. They are good safe glues for wood and paper, but our problem is gripping metal or painted metal, and that needs "goo"......Try to stick to branded makes, (awful pun), Stephen.
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Stephen
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Post by Stephen on Oct 16, 2012 16:19:17 GMT -5
For edges that have shrunk back slightly, try warming with a hair drier, and rubbing in black Wax crayon, which has also been warmed, it will fill the gap, and then polish with cloth and boot polish. For cracked Vulcanite hard finishes get black sealing wax, warm the camera more and drip the melted stuff on to a wooden tooth pick, and then drip into the gaps and chips, followed with a piece of cling film pushed down on it till it sets, seconds only, then "sculpt" the finish with a hot spoon tip. The repair is then polished etc, and should last the cameras life out. If you cannot find black sealing wax, then use red with black poster paint added when liquid, it will go near black, and then you can paint it to finish.
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Stephen
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Post by Stephen on Oct 16, 2012 16:22:18 GMT -5
Just checked the net, hard black sealing wax is freely available from several suppliers. Stephen.
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mickeyobe
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Post by mickeyobe on Oct 16, 2012 23:29:02 GMT -5
I have always used adhesives that could be removed should the camera require future repairs. Some of the new glues/cements/adhesives were meant to outlast the pyramids and probably will. Not too good if one must get into the body of a camera.
For coverings that have shrunk a little a very fine tipped black felt marker or a rigger (liner) brush with oil paint can often hide the thin strip of exposed metal.
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Post by philbirch on May 9, 2014 17:14:47 GMT -5
Pound shop contact adhesive is my favourite. It sticks like shi.. oops, a humbug to a blanket.
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