Yamato PaX M3

[jack]

Here's my current teardown of a Yamato PaX M3 camera. When I got this camera nothing worked except the lens iris diaphragm. The focus was frozen solid, the shutter was stuck, the film advance lever moved, but was gummed up and the return spring would not snap the lever back, the rewind knob was stuck solid as well. After removal of the lens from the body, I found that even though the follower arm for the rangefinder moved freely, the rangefinder mirror would not move. The glass was also a bit hazy, but cleaned up spectacularly and the overall camera cosmetics was good as well.

So far I've gotten all the stuck and sluggish mechanics running smooth again. Even after cleaning, the shutter was still being a bit finicky. I could cycle the shutter numerous times with absolutely no problems, then it would stick open for no apparent reason. That was driving me crazy for a few days, but I soon realized that there was a micro thin film of oil which was causing the shutter to hang. Even though I used just a very small amount of sewing machine oil applied with the point of a needle to pivot points, springs and a few of the small gears, the oil had migrated to the shutter blades. So I flushed the shutter blades with just a very small amount of lighter fluid and so far the shutter has been very reliable during my shutter cycling tests. Another day or two of shutter testing before I put the glass back in, reassemble the camera and make any rangefinder adjustments.

[Dave]

These cameras are really cute. I've never found one without the lens being essentially glued by the old lubricant. In fact, I've ruined at least one trying to get the lens loose after days of soaking, heat, and anything else I could think of. Thank heavens mine have beem cheap.

[Stephen]

The Pax was not a bad camera, Yamato made them to sell at a lower price level that was to attract middle of the road average users, not enthusiast photographers. The lens are fine, if clean, but the shutters are nearly always jammed with oil and grease. These early 50's cameras have quite a bit of "Style", they tried hard to look more expensive!

[jack]

Jan 27, 2013 1:24:15 GMT -5 Dave said:

Thank heavens mine have beem cheap.

I have to echo your sentiment. I got my M3 for $11.50 which was a bargain for a "repair or parts only" camera. This was a reasonably priced, fun and educational project and I should have a nice little shooter for my efforts.

Jan 27, 2013 9:01:51 GMT -5 Stephen said:

The Pax was not a bad camera, Yamato made them to sell at a lower price level that was to attract middle of the road average users, not enthusiast photographers. The lens are fine, if clean, but the shutters are nearly always jammed with oil and grease. These early 50's cameras have quite a bit of "Style", they tried hard to look more expensive!

As far as the looks, I've read these little Yamato PaX cameras are like simplified shrunken down Leicas, especially the early PaX and PaX M2 cameras.

[philbirch]

I have a Pax3 with both lenses and viewfinders. I paid a little over £20 and I'm really pleased. The 1/10th and lower speeds are slow but the others seem on the money. I'm going to give it as go in the next few days.

[Dave]

Same as the above comments -- I bought two or three. All were glued so tightly that they took days of soaking, heat, and any solvent I could think of. I ruined at least one, but I think I have two that function -- at least at last check some many months ago. They certainly resembled Leicas.

[philbirch]

The M3 will not wind film. The lever moves and it cocks the shutter but the sprockets and film advance dont work. I have an M4 now and same problem. No luck with these Paxes!. I cant figure out how to get the top plate off to have a look.

[Stephen]

I do not know the exact way to remove the top on a Pax, but going on other 1950's Japanese designs, they are usually secured by the ring around the wind on, or the re-wind shaft securing nut, and screws at the opposite end of the camera.
The wind on lever more rarely secures anything, although after removal a ring nut on the shaft may be retaining the top structure in the same way as the rewind.
It is rare on the 1950's Japanese designs for internal screws to be facing out of the chassis to engage the cover, as most are thin aluminium or steel, therefore all screws heads will be outside. Surprisingly few screws are used to secure the top on most designs.
Some designs have no screws, just the nuts or rings on the shafts retaining the top plate.
The usual problem with Pax and the same vintage is dried grease, or corrosion from damp storage. They were never intended to last 50 years.

Stephen.

[Stephen]

A quick look at some images shows the likely retention is purely the wind on and the re-wind shafts, but may be backed up with the rangefinder shoe screws. They can all be retaining, or just one, tapped into the casting that forms the inner top chassis of the camera. It does not appear to have any other external screws to remove to gain access.

Stephen.

[philbirch]

The little red 'spot' must be unscrewed, one of the shoe screws comes out but there is something else, the rewind knob just goes round and doesn't unscrew. There are no external screw heads. Unless there is an internal screw - like the Voigtlanders. A mystery

[Stephen]

I am assuming that when the rewind is turned in an anti clockwise direction, the fork driving the cassette inside is held in place, to unscrew the top.
This is the generic method, the shaft will then drop down, and around the shaft hole, or inside the hole as cut outs, the inner part or retaining nut will then unscrew. It may need a "pin" spanner to fit cut outs, or a modified pair of fine tipped pliers to turn the cut out types.
Some designs, (rarer), have the nut INSIDE the body, and unscrew from below, and again may need a Pin spanner to fit tiny cut outs, it may not be as obvious as an ordinary nut. It will still need the rewind shaft removed to get at the nut from below.
Although the badge removes by screw, I deeply suspect that it is not part of the retention of the top plate.

Stephen.

[philbirch]

Thanks Stephen, I'll have a look tomorrow.

[linhoff]

Jan 26, 2013 23:24:49 GMT -5 jack said:

Here's my current teardown of a Yamato PaX M3 camera. When I got this camera nothing worked except the lens iris diaphragm. The focus was frozen solid, the shutter was stuck, the film advance lever moved, but was gummed up and the return spring would not snap the lever back, the rewind knob was stuck solid as well. After removal of the lens from the body, I found that even though the follower arm for the rangefinder moved freely, the rangefinder mirror would not move. The glass was also a bit hazy, but cleaned up spectacularly and the overall camera cosmetics was good as well.

So far I've gotten all the stuck and sluggish mechanics running smooth again. Even after cleaning, the shutter was still being a bit finicky. I could cycle the shutter numerous times with absolutely no problems, then it would stick open for no apparent reason. That was driving me crazy for a few days, but I soon realized that there was a micro thin film of oil which was causing the shutter to hang. Even though I used just a very small amount of sewing machine oil applied with the point of a needle to pivot points, springs and a few of the small gears, the oil had migrated to the shutter blades. So I flushed the shutter blades with just a very small amount of lighter fluid and so far the shutter has been very reliable during my shutter cycling tests. Another day or two of shutter testing before I put the glass back in, reassemble the camera and make any rangefinder adjustments.

[linhoff]

Hi Jack. I just got a rangefinder pax No 19824 in perfect exterior condition in good leather case. All the controls are frozen. Can you repair it for me, or know someone who can? my email [e-mail]

[maisie]

You guys always have cool themes for those who love taking photos!