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Post by moltogordo on Feb 8, 2015 18:07:37 GMT -5
What a great post!! I think every collector should buy you a beer! I've got several that I might subject my ham-fists to this procedure, starting with a very nice Yashica FX-7 I still use! Bravo!
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mickeyobe
Lifetime Member
Resident President
Posts: 7,280
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Post by mickeyobe on Feb 8, 2015 19:21:01 GMT -5
I have recently discovered a very old glue that works on almost any material that needs gluing. It is water soluble so if the glued pieces might have to be separated in the future a little warm water will make removal easy but it probably wont do for boats or out of door projects.
I recently re-glued the back of my 4/4 full size double bass. The glue stayed workable for a long enough time to be spread around the perimeter of the back and the edges of the sides. If it starts to set up too soon just brush some water on it. I have used it to glue down leather camera covers that have started to lift. I diluted it with water and used a very fine sable watercolour brush. The ooze comes off with a damp rag. I have used it on plastics, paper and rubber as well as plastic foam. It is great for loose chair legs and rungs and lifted veneers. I glued some linen on one side and leather on the other to a piece plywood to make a razor strop.
It is Fish Glue. No it does not smell fishy at all. It does not develop fine hairs when you lift the applicator from the glued objects. It is medium brown in colour and retains its colour so that will limit some uses. Clamps are useful as it is not instant glue. It may be lifted and repositioned before it dries.
I bought mine from Lee Valley Tools here in Toronto but I think it is probably universally available.
Mickey
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Post by philbirch on Feb 8, 2015 19:24:27 GMT -5
What a great post!! I think every collector should buy you a beer! I've got several that I might subject my ham-fists to this procedure, starting with a very nice Yashica FX-7 I still use! Bravo! Its not too hard. A steady hand and a hole punch if there is a sync socket. Some of the Yashica/Contaxes have rather complicated shaped leathers. Sharp, fine nail scissors are essential for going round fine curves. A couple of tips: If you are using leather it can leave rather 'frayed' edges. Pass the leather through a gas lighter flame quickly, it will burn off most of the frays. This can be done with fabric backed vinyls. But you must be quick. Colour the edge of the leather/covering with water based marker pen. Whiteboard marker is ideal. It will wipe cleanly off the surface of the covering but will permanently colour the absorbent edges.
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Post by philbirch on Apr 25, 2015 10:01:30 GMT -5
A Fed I have in my collection. The camera shutter doesnt close and the lens has a bashed filter ring. It has no value to me really. I thought I'd cover it with a fake snakeskin from a 50pence handbag from a charity shop. The skin was really thick, like 2.5mm, so I cut it slightly large and trimmed the edges at a chamfer. I cut it to size and it looks great. Comfy and soft in the hand.
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Post by Randy on Apr 30, 2015 10:01:09 GMT -5
Looks kinda sexy, eh?
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Stephen
Lifetime Member
Still collecting.......
Posts: 2,718
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Post by Stephen on Apr 30, 2015 10:34:10 GMT -5
A Fed I have in my collection. The camera shutter doesnt close and the lens has a bashed filter ring. It has no value to me really. I thought I'd cover it with a fake snakeskin from a 50pence handbag from a charity shop. The skin was really thick, like 2.5mm, so I cut it slightly large and trimmed the edges at a chamfer. I cut it to size and it looks great. Comfy and soft in the hand. The shutter should be easy to repair, usually if it is the second blind, somebody has fiddled with the tensioners! It may have lost a tape of course, but again is relatively easy to re-glue, but requires the shutter crate removed, to get at the rollers and re-attach the tapes. Stephen
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Post by philbirch on Apr 30, 2015 18:30:11 GMT -5
Hi Stephen, I'm sure it is the tensioners. It closes at 1/30th but not at faster speeds. Any idea how?. PS look in your PM's.
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Post by deebel on May 10, 2015 6:40:18 GMT -5
Hi I take issue with the advice not to use double sided tape. I have used this for many years with success however with all things the quality is the key. the best I have used is from Lidl however "poundshop" tape doesn't cut the muster. Contax and Yashica are very easy to do as they peel clean very easily and allow you to use the pieces as templates which have enough stickiness to hold on to the new leather. I always use good quality bookbinding leather ideally no more than 0.6mm thick.Cover the new leather carefully with strips of ds tape butted to completely cover the piece before cutting out. i do not draw round but use a sharp pointed craft knife against the edge of the old pattern.In this way the new pieces are pre taped and have a backing paper which allows dry fitting and adjustment. I score the backing paper so that I can remove it small strips at a time allowing quite delicate control. also licking the first edge when positioning in the lens area allows a bit of movement to get the line just right. I encourage everyone to give it a go. It is very satisfying to customise your user cameras. I put leather onto good quality point and shoots and give them to my friends and it is really remarkable how many are now back shooting film because the like the camera. s268.photobucket.com/user/deebel/library/Cameras/Contax%20and%20Yashicas268.photobucket.com/user/deebel/library/Cameras/Covered%20Cameras
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Post by philbirch on May 10, 2015 9:48:47 GMT -5
I'm sure you're right about the double sided tape. The type I used on the Olympus was for carpets and was in a wide roll. I stuck it onto the vinyl and cut the shape along with the tape. However, contact adhesive does the job nicely and is easier to use. The advantage of glue is that you can re-position the cover and stretch it onto corners if you must. Tape has the disadvantage in that whatever it touches it sticks to like poop to a blanket. A real PITA at times.
Some nice jobs on your photobucket. A hole punch would be perfect for the LED on the CONTAX.
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Post by deebel on May 10, 2015 12:28:16 GMT -5
Thanks Phil, ideally a punch would be cleaner but the led is more of a rectangle on the 167MT hence it appears a bit raggedy...however through use it has worn well and the edges around the led have smoothed a bit.
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Post by philbirch on May 11, 2015 13:13:36 GMT -5
I wouldnt attempt to cover anything that required too many holes - let alone square holes!. I'm not brave enough.
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Post by johnbear on Nov 10, 2015 18:44:45 GMT -5
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Post by philbirch on Nov 12, 2015 14:41:58 GMT -5
I like the second CONTAX, the colour is nice and a little more conservative than the other. Good jobs.
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Post by Randy on Nov 22, 2015 23:58:58 GMT -5
I always clean up the edges of the leather and color it with a black marker.
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Post by philbirch on Nov 26, 2015 15:55:42 GMT -5
Yeah Randy, the black marker makes all the difference.
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