Zorki 3

[SidW]

Nov 23, 2014 19:04:45 GMT -5 Stephen said:

... It of course works with all cameras with B setting.....which is what B stands for, to fire bulbs ...

I've always understand that "Bulb" stood for a pneumatic bulb, attached to the release like we would a cable, squeeze the bulb to open the shutter, keep it squeezed to hold the shutter open, and then let go to close the shutter. By the way, were there flash bulbs in those days? I thought they burned magnesium in the open.

[philbirch]

Nov 23, 2014 17:45:46 GMT -5 Stephen said:

...On the viewfinder......it has got an adjuster, just like the Fed, under the rewind knob, yours is there in the shot, and moves back and forth to adjust the diopetre of the viewfinder lens.

Stephen.

Ah, I wondered what it was and when I used the camera yesterday I thought it was more blurred. Thanks for that.

And BTW:

Bulb (photography)

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia



Bulb, abbreviated B, is a shutter speed setting on an adjustable camera that allows for long exposure times under the direct control of the photographer. With this setting, the shutter simply stays open as long as the shutter release button remains depressed. An alternative setting common on film cameras is Time, abbreviated T, where the button is pressed once to open the shutter and again to close it.[1][2]





The term bulb is a reference to old-style pneumatically actuated shutters; squeezing an air bulb would open the shutter and releasing the bulb would close it. According to the Focal Encyclopedia of Photography:[3]



BULB EXPOSURE (B). Another term for a brief exposure—in which the shutter remains open only so long as the shutter release is held down. The word originated with the early pneumatic shutter release.

[mickeyobe]

Nov 24, 2014 6:35:12 GMT -5 Stephen said:

Results very dependent on the film speed!.....I heard old stories of Victorian Photographers using slow wet emulsion, with by our standards slow lenses for portraiture, who would ask the sitters to stay still, take of the lens cap, and sit down and wait whilst drinking a cup of tea, then say to the sitters, you can move now...and only then remember to put the cap back on, or fit the darkslide plate.....the shots came out fine anyway!!!

Stephen.

My old time shutter. It was made from a tin lid from a pickle jar and a wooden drawer pull.

The 8x10" Gundlach Korona had no lens or shutter. It was a mess when I got it. I made only a couple of exposures to see if my repairs were any good. This was the very first camera in my collection.

I used 8x10" Ilford Multigrade paper. Ilford suggested I rate it at 10 ASA which was perfect.
Figuring that the longer the exposure the more room I had for error (I excel at errors.) I exposed for 10 seconds. Also perfect.
Developed in open trays and copied the paper negative into my computer for a rather good positive print of a nondescript landscape.

The shutter was very smooth and performed flawlessly. (I am not a tea drinker.)
It is still on the camera.



Mickey.

[Stephen]

I was being a bit tongue in cheek saying B stood for bulbs, but it does! and also Brief, and Bulb et al........

Stephen.

[Stephen]

Nov 24, 2014 8:30:47 GMT -5 SidW said:

Nov 23, 2014 19:04:45 GMT -5 Stephen said:

... It of course works with all cameras with B setting.....which is what B stands for, to fire bulbs ...

I've always understand that "Bulb" stood for a pneumatic bulb, attached to the release like we would a cable, squeeze the bulb to open the shutter, keep it squeezed to hold the shutter open, and then let go to close the shutter. By the way, were there flash bulbs in those days? I thought they burned magnesium in the open.

Bulbs started about 1927 with General Electric, and quickly developed a range of sizes mainly for professional uses at first, then after the war the small Pf type took over till the bulbs demise generally. It is believed there is no production of bulbs anywhere now, unless you know differently

[mickeyobe]

Nov 24, 2014 14:10:43 GMT -5 Stephen said:

Nov 24, 2014 8:30:47 GMT -5 SidW said:

I've always understand that "Bulb" stood for a pneumatic bulb, attached to the release like we would a cable, squeeze the bulb to open the shutter, keep it squeezed to hold the shutter open, and then let go to close the shutter. By the way, were there flash bulbs in those days? I thought they burned magnesium in the open.

Bulbs started about 1927 with General Electric, and quickly developed a range of sizes mainly for professional uses at first, then after the war the small Pf type took over till the bulbs demise generally. It is believed there is no production of bulbs anywhere now, unless you know differently

I believe the bulb setting was used primarily for magnesium flash exposures.

It took a while for a tray of magnesium powder to burn and the shutter had to be held open - with a bulb - for the time necessary for all the magnesium to fire.

T for Time came a little later. Squeeze the bulb and the shutter opened then release the bulb. Have your tea. Come back and squeeze the bulb again and the shutter closed.

Mickey

[Deleted]

Sid is correct. The lever under the rewind knob is the eyepiece adjustment. Remember. Just like the other Soviet Leica copies: ALWAYS cock the shutter before changing shutter speeds.

[philbirch]

Nov 24, 2014 17:47:32 GMT -5 @wayne said:

Sid is correct. The lever under the rewind knob is the eyepiece adjustment. Remember. Just like the other Soviet Leica copies: ALWAYS cock the shutter before changing shutter speeds.

Thanks Wayne. I always cock the shutter first. I must have told a hundred customers in my retail days. If you change the shutter speed on a Zorki 4 before winding it on it fires at the wrong speed then the speeds dont line up. You have to do it again four or five times until they do. 

[Stephen]

Have you had a chance to try out the Zorki 3 and standard lens as yet?

Mine arrived OK from the Ukraine, very reasonable condition, only slight bump on the top, very slight, could be corrected later on. Slight wear on the bottom plate. Shutter is OK on my tester, all accurate, and quiet and smooth shutter,(beats a Leica on noise). The blinds look new, maybe replacements.

Film to go through this week, black and white, then colour. Lens checked on my Pen PM1, looks perfect, also checked on Periflex and Corfield focus checker. No dust, no fungus, very slight cleaning marks.

Giving the exterior a good clean with solvent and then water, and a good micro fibre cloth. The marks of brassing etc, on the base, I have cleaned up with a fibre glass eraser. used very lightly. Interior needs a clean, only a bit of dust etc, and a polish of the film pressure plate and rails.

I will do another posting with photos and details.

Stephen.

[philbirch]

Not finished my film yet. I don't do scientific tests, just use it and look at the pics. I'm working s#it shifts this week but I'm going to Manchester to give blood on friday and also with the express purpose of taking some pics. I'll use the Zorki then and perhaps have a bit of fun with the 17mm on front too!

[Stephen]

I was about to try the Zorki 3 camera out today, but the weather is atrocious, the light outside is more like a murky dawn! Pouring with rain, it is so over cast at midday it barely registers on my Weston meter. if it does not improve I will change to a pushed HP4....

Stephen.

[philbirch]

We had a lovely day today up here in't North. Sun and tonight a beautiful moon and frost. Ah winter is finally here even though technically its still autumn for another three weeks.

Enjoy your camera and don't break it!

[hannes]

Hello:

This old thread triggered my GAS to get a Zorki 3. It looks so beautiful with its slow speed dial on the front of the body. So I set up a search on eBay and after some time I won this one from an Austrian seller.



It is in near mint condition, came with Leather case and the small white plastic card for notes. Everything works like a charme, even the slow speeds sound like new and seem to be accurate. Only the range finder arm was stiff but after 5 movements by hand it follows the lens and is accurate for infinity and even close focus with the Jupiter 9.



When I opened the back I found a Contax style film casette in it.



Till today I shot one roll of film with it and can say that this is my favorite FSU camera besides the Kiev 4.

Finally a small family foto of the Zorki 3 with my Fed 1(f)



And yes, sometimes GAS wants some tribute and eBay search deliver hits on even fancy searches. So a Fed 2 with low serial number 173075, a Zorki 4 export version from 1961 and finally a Zorki 1 (c) export model with Juptier 8 and matching leather case found their way to me.



Hannes