Exakta lubrication help

[laverdaguy]

I have a Exakta VX, and  VX1000 both of which squeak a bit. Otherwise they function fine, but without a lube job will damage themselves. I've been looking but cant find anything online about the proper points to lubricate these. Does anyone have a link or other information that would help?

Thanks much,

Ed

[Stephen]

www.zorkikat.com/2011/12/my-second-exakta-and-the-replacement-of-its-shutter/

....above is the sort of advice on the net, there are lots if you look hard! The Exakta is not too bad to strip, it has a proper shutter crate, and can operate outside the camera. The art is opening up the top in the correct order.
All the bearings will need a bit of thin oil on them, use Labelle synthetic, or Nano oil, or a good quality watchmakers oil. The bearings are all obvious, none are too hidden away, and it does not require the shutter to be stripped. Unless corrosion or sand is inside then cleaning out is merely a brush and spirit cleaner job.
Whilst open, check the curtains, you will see they are amongst the easiest to replace of all reflexes.

If you have an EXA with the cloth shutter, you could practice opening up the body on that, it takes about 10 minutes.
to open up.
All Exaktas suffer from bad lube, the East German oil and grease was awful stuff!!

Stephen.

[laverdaguy]

Excellent site Stephen, thank you. I have both a broken EXA, and another VX 1000 that seems to have numerous issues and that is probably destined to be a support parts body. I'll be practicing on these before opening the two good bodies.

[Stephen]

There was a privately published book on the net via Ebay, but not on offer at present...."Ultimate Exakta Repair", by Miles Upton, search ebay for seller called exaktaphile1.
The book is mentioned on several sites, I have not got a copy.

As long as the Exa is the later cloth shutter type, not the mirror shutter, then the dis-assembly is very easy, but don't forget there are retaining screw inside the camera film chamber to remove! A well lubricated Exa is a surprise, they are quieter and smoother, indicating that the East Germans never bothered to lubricate them properly even when new. They seem to have used a strange green grease on the gears, and very little oil on the shafts.

The older Exa with the mirror shutter is no more complex, but uses slightly different screw positions. Again it will operate outside the body.

Good oils are needed, Model Railway oils are useful, Labelle do oil with Teflon added, and Nano Oil is a proprietary oil claiming micro lubrication advantages. Genuine Singer sewing machine oil is reasonable, but do not use car oil or domestic oil which contains penetrating agents. Watch makers suppliers sell good oil, whale was best, but unobtainable!! They do offer substitutes. Keep all oil to a minimum in case it spreads, wipe away any excess.


The main problem with Exa and Exakta was that they are simply not dust and sand proof, it can get inside easily, no sealing at all, only light proofing. So cleaning out should be done, best with compressed air, but a brush and paraffin or alcohol added will do.

Stephen.