Stephen
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Still collecting.......
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Post by Stephen on Jun 14, 2015 20:29:27 GMT -5
Photo of a Sailing Barge near the Isle of Sheppey, on the Swale, taken on Russian 135mm F4.0 on Zorki 1, Ilford FP 4 film, with red filter. The barge had been towed by Tug From Faversham Creek Quays, and was preparing to set sail into the Thames estuary. Taken from near the Shiprights Arms Pub. The background Pylons are about the biggest in the UK to allow the power lines over the Swale river.  Stephen |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 15, 2015 16:18:54 GMT -5
Nice shot. Proves the Zorki 1 can do the job.
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SidW
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Post by SidW on Jun 15, 2015 18:28:25 GMT -5
Well done.
Unusual painting scheme for a Thames Barge.
Homesick. Born with both feet in the Swale.
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Post by julio1fer on Jun 15, 2015 20:47:39 GMT -5
That Jupiter-11 is sharp indeed, in good hands.
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Post by philbirch on Jun 16, 2015 15:05:18 GMT -5
The lens if great. I sold my M42 version with the promise to buy an M39 version. Not done it yet. Alas my Zorki 1 isnt well. The rewind mechanism doesnt work and the film just tears.
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Stephen
Lifetime Member
Still collecting.......
Posts: 2,718
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Post by Stephen on Jun 16, 2015 18:52:35 GMT -5
On a Zorki, rewind failure is usually the return spring under the release, not having the strength to retun the clutch, turning the collar at the top pushes down releasing a dog clutch, sticking is simply a lack of lube, making the return pushed by the spring difficult. The body comes off easily, just the rim screws, and the mount for the lens, and the whole shell comes off. Clean and lube the parts and it should operate OK.
Stephen.
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Post by philbirch on Jun 17, 2015 18:10:24 GMT -5
On a Zorki, rewind failure is usually the return spring under the release, not having the strength to retun the clutch, turning the collar at the top pushes down releasing a dog clutch, sticking is simply a lack of lube, making the return pushed by the spring difficult. The body comes off easily, just the rim screws, and the mount for the lens, and the whole shell comes off. Clean and lube the parts and it should operate OK. Stephen. You maker it sound so easy. Now if I could figure out what the 'rim screws' were I may have a stab at it... |
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Stephen
Lifetime Member
Still collecting.......
Posts: 2,718
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Post by Stephen on Jun 18, 2015 5:01:35 GMT -5
The screws around the top rim of the chromed top, that secure the aluminium body sleeve to the top. The whole top remains complete, no knobs or controls are removed.
The front mount is removed and the front screws as well. The mount may have shims under the screw mount, which should be noted and replaced.
Once all the screws are out, the whole shutter removes as a shutter unit or crate. Make sure the rangefinder arm is gently depressed as the crate is pulled upwards. Don't forget the pressure plate falls out, retain the spring!!
Once out the whole shutter may be examined, it is in working order outside the body. The area to examine is the release, and the single pin dog clutch at the base of the release.
The release pushes the clutch to let the spring rotate, releasing the shutter. The shaft through to the shaft may need a spot of oil, the clutch itself, the gears at the top, etc. The main release spring underneath, the large leaf spring may need a check that it has not gone slack, or rusted.
What has happened is the camera is some how partly stuck in forward etc., it needs the oiling to free the action. It is possible the pin in the clutch is worn or loose, or the main release shaft is bent, but lack of oil is more likely.
Use light oil like sewing machine oil.
The same above method applies to Feds and the early Leica models. Later Russian models are a fraction easier after the opening back was introduced. The oiling can be done and the action watched, without taking the body sleeve off.
Stephen
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