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Post by oldgeorge on Sept 22, 2017 16:28:17 GMT -5
My Werramat just arrived, lovely little camera! I also scored the 100 mm tele, both camera and the 50 mm and the tele seem to be in excellent + condition. The shutter sounds good at all speeds, VF clear, no lens flaws, etc.
I even have the instruction manual, such as it is. Since I've got about 60 years of film burning I'm figuring the camera out, but for a beginner.... good luck! Anyone out there know of a handy-dandy guide, such as were published back in the day by third-party folks? For example the "Way" series.
Another question. While the helical on the 100 is silky-smooth, the 50 is stiff and needs cleaning. Any thoughts on a good shop to do this? Since the shutter is in the body the lenses should be simple inside, but not for me to attempt!
Many thanks for any help!
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Post by paulhofseth on Sept 26, 2017 2:23:24 GMT -5
My Tessar works smoothly, but for your sluggish one, some careful standard vandalism might improve matters.
Besides operating it a number of times to redistribute the lubrication, you might try a bit of gentle heating.
The aperture does not depend on springs and quick reactions since it is completely controlled by the interlocked timing-aperture rings. Hence the risk from too fluid helix-grease is "only" longer term fogging of the glass but does not lead to acute sticking aperture blades. Also, the helix seeems to be well outside the lens tube, so while fumes can go far, the oils would need to creep a longer way than with some other lenses. The totally enclosing lens "cap" og the Werras does not permit fumes an easy escape, so do not mount that for a while after the unsticking efforts are ended.
Looking at the Tessar from the rear, you will notice one small guiding rail at the periphery of the (invisible) helix. If heating does not improve matters, dipping a toothpick in oil, letting it drip off and the carefully placing a microdrop of oil on the sides of the rail might possibly help.
p.
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mickeyobe
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Post by mickeyobe on Sept 28, 2017 5:50:29 GMT -5
My Tessar works smoothly, but for your sluggish one, some careful standard vandalism might improve matters. Besides operating it a number of times to redistribute the lubrication, you might try a bit of gentle heating. Looking at the Tessar from the rear, you will notice one small guiding rail at the periphery of the (invisible) helix. If heating does not improve matters, dipping a toothpick in oil, letting it drip off and the carefully placing a microdrop of oil on the sides of the rail might possibly help. p. I have always been extremely cautious of bringing oil and cameras together. I have found that a tiny amount of lighter fluid used judiciously will work wonders in freeing seized and sluggish camera components. Mickey |
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Post by paulhofseth on Sept 28, 2017 11:20:35 GMT -5
I agree ad oil, which is why I labelled it "gentle vandalism".
Your suggestion of lighter fluid is excellent for diluting sluggish grease, I have used it, but did not think of it in this case. It might even be applied to the rim of the lens tube- a place where I would not use oil. Same procedure for the lighter fluid as above, wooden toothpick after it has released drips -but before evething has evaporated, will transfer a minute amount of solvent. Reapply if necessary.
Again, as a last resort, an oil-wetted toothpick on the rail. The rail is outside the helix and lens-tube, so I am not that worried about oil at that place.
As I mentioned above, my Werra works smoothly ,so I do not have any experience of unsticking that lens. The helix has a larger surface than the guide-rail, so stiffened grease there might be a more likely cause of resistance than a stuck rail, but the rail is easy to get at without any disassembly and will certainly make some contribution towards the focussing resistance.
p.
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mickeyobe
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Posts: 7,280
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Post by mickeyobe on Sept 28, 2017 23:02:24 GMT -5
I agree ad oil, which is why I labelled it "gentle vandalism". Your suggestion of lighter fluid is excellent for diluting sluggish grease, I have used it, but did not think of it in this case. It might even be applied to the rim of the lens tube- a place where I would not use oil. Same procedure for the lighter fluid as above, wooden toothpick after it has released drips -but before evething has evaporated, will transfer a minute amount of solvent. Reapply if necessary. Again, as a last resort, an oil-wetted toothpick on the rail. The rail is outside the helix and lens-tube, so I am not that worried about oil at that place. As I mentioned above, my Werra works smoothly ,so I do not have any experience of unsticking that lens. The helix has a larger surface than the guide-rail, so stiffened grease there might be a more likely cause of resistance than a stuck rail, but the rail is easy to get at without any disassembly and will certainly make some contribution towards the focussing resistance. p. Paul, I suggest a round, sharply pointed toothpick instead of the more common flat ones with a larger point. You will have more control over the drop. Nobody wants to drip a drop that droops all over the place. A tiny drip of a drop is much more likely to drip exactly where you drop it. Mickey |
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Post by paulhofseth on Sept 29, 2017 10:55:44 GMT -5
The thinner the better. Mechanical (repeted twisting) and the thermal methods should be tried before resorting to dilution and oil. And if someone is skilled enough to open, clean and lubricate it, that is of course the best option.
p.
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