Does re-leathering a camera reduce it's value?

[jack]

I've thought about this question several times during my camera collecting...

Does re-leathering a camera reduce it's value?

I know some "user" cameras can get really beat up and applying new leather or simulated leather covering can get them looking good again, and I would have absolutely no problem with that. But what if you had a somewhat valuable camera with the manufacturer's name and logos embossed into leather that was drying up and pulling off the camera. Would it be better to apply new leather or leave the original leather?

Another example would be replacement of a bellows that was originally black to a blue one. Yes it might look very cool, but does that type of thing affect the collector value ($$$) of that camera?

[Peltigera]

Not my cameras. Most I've paid for a camera so far is £30.00. Not a lot of value to lose.

[truls]

If one has a valueable camera, restoring the leather or other parts, may be preferable. Old cars are more valuable if original and restored than replacing parts. The same would go for cameras.

[Stephen]

It does affect some, the ones with Logos and impressed leather, mainly art deco folding designs, and originality is vital to some collectors, but once the leather is very poor and the camera not unique it is best replaced.

If well done, and all the original look is kept, then value is not affected, it may even increase. Some will require new leather anyway during the lifetime of use and service, just replace with suitable matching materials.

One thing my reduce values, and that is trying to duplicate the rarer finishes like fish skin, on a camera that was made with leather or fitting, say brown, or tan leather to original black finished models. Also generating black finish cameras from chrome models.

Stephen.

[hansz]

As a Zeiss Ikon collector/user with re-leathering important information is lost forever. High end models the information is engraved in the metal but even the Super Ikont lines (and almost all prewarII models) valuable information is imprinted in the original leatherette.

For other brands, the Contax line for example, re-leathering is almost a must...

Hans

[Stephen]

If the style is important, then seek help from a bookbinder, they have the tools to hot impress the lines, lettering and numbers etc., into real leather. Complex logos are the difficult ones though, a new master tool has to be made, skilled work, but not impossible. If the original is leatherette there may be problems impressing the lines, and moulded vulcanite, (rubber), is practically impossible to replace, as it was moulded on under heat in a hot mould factory process.

Stephen.

[jack]

Thanks for all the replies. I just thought of a possible work around. For some cameras, like Zeiss Ikon, if the leather is still in pretty good shape but just scuffed / color worn down from use, maybe a leather dye or refinish would be a good solution instead of replacing the skins.

I was looking on Amazon.com and the black dyes I found interesting were "Black Jacket" and "Fiebings Leather Dye". Any thoughts on leather refinishing?

[Peltigera]

I use liquid scuff repair polish for shoes on my cameras. Not too much and a deal of rubbing to get all the surplus off. Looks very nearly as good as new.

[Stephen]

It is not often realised that leather is not quite the stuff it seems, it is skin, but has been treated so much that it has altered quite a bit, and the surface is almost artificial, moulded, stained, waxed etc., to get the right look and texture.

Any stain will do for black leather, cold water dyes for cloth work for other colours, but to repair you must first wipe over with spirit thinners to remove the old finish, which may be water proof. This may remove colour as well, but the stain will put that back. If the leather is resistant to water based dyes, black spirit wood stain can be used to start restoration.

Next rub in mink oil, or any good leather treatment, warming with hair dryer, wipe off carefully any trace left, and leave to dry.

Then apply boot black or the scruff repair liquid etc., and polish, removing any excess.

If small patches of matt are left due to damage to the old leather surface they can be sealed with a spot of button varnish, or shellac, (french polish), or cellulose varnish, painted on as needed. The boot polish will work over the mark, and they should not show badly. You can also use black cellulose car paint on matt spots to seal and colour the damage mark.

Holes can be filled with black sealing wax, or tiny marks, and edges with wax crayon.

The liquid scuff repair polish goes on after all the initial repairs and re-colouring, excellent stuff, as previously mentioned.

[Stephen]

With Vulcanite finishes, vulcanised rubber, like Leica and Russian cameras, you can use the car treatment for restoring Black vinyl bumpers and trim. Rub on and buff away, dependant on the type. Best not cleaned with acetone, as it can dissolve the finish.

Black spirit wood stain can restore sun faded Vulcanite back to black, with heated beeswax to finish and seal.
Stephen.

[lloydy]

Oct 27, 2012 14:29:23 GMT -5 Stephen said:

With Vulcanite finishes, vulcanised rubber, like Leica and Russian cameras, you can use the car treatment for restoring Black vinyl bumpers and trim. Rub on and buff away, dependant on the type. Best not cleaned with acetone, as it can dissolve the finish.

Black spirit wood stain can restore sun faded Vulcanite back to black, with heated beeswax to finish and seal.
Stephen.

'Back to black' - good stuff.

[Randy]

A vast amount of the cameras I recover need it because the leatherette is mushy or hard or missing.

[Stephen]

I must confess that a lot of the re-finishing was learnt whilst selling second hand cameras, the shop window reeked of Cherry Blossom shoe polish if you were not careful. Chromium polish, Brasso, electrical contact cleaner, WD-40, etc., all had their uses, applied over about a half hour or so, you would be amazed what dirt and grime came off.

Leatherette was the nuisance, cloth backed "Plastic" (pvc) or the older linseed oil types related to soft linoleum. PVC will not take polishes well, and older lino based stuff dries and crumbles, held together only by the cloth liner.

Bad leatherette has to be replaced, no treatment will save it if it has reached the crumble stage.

[33dollars]

I like the look of a well worn camera that still functions as is should mechanistically. That ruff look gives it character. Just proves how well that camera was made in its day. If a bellows needs replacing to make the camera usable then why not go the full restoration on all its leathers. But I draw the line at crazy colours on cameras. To me its black, chrome or wood for cameras.

[Randy]

Oct 28, 2012 3:39:02 GMT -5 33dollars said:

I like the look of a well worn camera that still functions as is should mechanistically. That ruff look gives it character. Just proves how well that camera was made in its day. If a bellows needs replacing to make the camera usable then why not go the full restoration on all its leathers. But I draw the line at crazy colours on cameras. To me its black, chrome or wood for cameras.

So I guess this is an ugly camera, eh?