Stephen
Lifetime Member
Still collecting.......
Posts: 2,718
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Post by Stephen on May 15, 2013 18:25:48 GMT -5
To be cleaned and restored, an AGI British made Agimatic 35mm camera, manufactured in Croydon, south of London. Well constructed 35mm camera with an interchangeable 45mm lens, a tele 80mm was also made. All parts were made by AGI, including the lenses. The wind on and shutter release are combined in one lever around the lens mounting, an unusual arrangement. Also odd is the rewind, with a lever, an an indicator to show the film was loaded and moving. It has an extinction meter fitted, with a good calculator on the top plate. The whole design of the interior and back is close to the Braun Paxette type, but is better made and finished. The lens is quite good for the period, sharp but not very contrasty. This one has the rare rubber hood, reversible for storage, and a good leather case. Even rarer though are the rubber rimmed filter mounts to match the rubber hood, most have rotted away long ago, none with this example. I will run a colour negative film though after the clean up. It all seems to be in full working order. Stephen.
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casualcollector
Lifetime Member
In Search of "R" Serial Soligors
Posts: 619
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Post by casualcollector on May 16, 2013 5:47:40 GMT -5
Very interesting camera.
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retina
Senior Member
Posts: 72
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Post by retina on May 16, 2013 16:12:27 GMT -5
G'day Stephen,
I've got one of these too, you are right, they are very well-made.
I have never seen an 85mm lens for this model anywhere, have you ever come across one?
Regards, Chris
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Stephen
Lifetime Member
Still collecting.......
Posts: 2,718
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Post by Stephen on May 16, 2013 17:00:51 GMT -5
I have seen the tele lens, one was with an Agina that I sold in the shop, from the later camera, but same lenses. They must be quite uncommon. Paxette lenses were far more common, and involved other makers. AGI made all the lens and camera components, ground the glass, did the coatings etc.
Stephen.
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Post by philbirch on Nov 11, 2013 16:18:34 GMT -5
I have one of these and it is a beautiful camera, but theres a film transport problem. Any idea if it can be repaired and who is the best to do it?
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Post by philbirch on Jun 17, 2014 6:47:05 GMT -5
I found a nice working example. The top plate had a scratch and the name plate round the lens a little rusty in places, plus the lens had a small chip on the rear element which the seller described as a fungus spot, and the leather insert on the wind lever. But all the parts have been transplanted from my old one. Its a beautiful camera and its great to have a working model. I may take it out with me tomorrow. It was £30 post paid, which is about right for a working one. No quibble money back guarantee too. Yesterday's camera left the old non-working one and right the new one got yesterday. I've carefully reassembled the old one and may look into repairing the shutter cocking and film transport mechanism. But there is a lot of corrosion under the top plate. The back/base of the new one has some scratches and marks on it while the old one is in good condition outside. But the old one has rust where the springs rub against the pressure plate and the edges of the back where it slides into the grooves making it hard to remove. Is there a way of cleaning this rust off and preventing it coming back??
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Stephen
Lifetime Member
Still collecting.......
Posts: 2,718
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Post by Stephen on Jun 17, 2014 7:09:02 GMT -5
If the item is steel, and has rust, then phosphoric acid is the best remover.This was sold as Jenolite rust remover, the liquid form. But the plain acid, as used as a solder flux is just the same. It is available from Carrs (model railway specialists on the net etc.,) or from Chemists in BPC grade.
It will remove all iron oxide, and help prevent return, but in reality it needs a light oil or wax to keep air from the treated item. However the treated item can have gunblack treatment, selenium type, which should stop further rusting, if it is to be left unpainted.
There are other propriety brands of rust remover which leave a PVA type surface that is suitable for painting over. This has the advantage of stopping the return, but must be painted over.
There is another traditional rust remover, which will not damage paint, and that is a a saturated solution of boiled sugar. It is used by restorers where the paint must be preserved. The item is immersed in the cold solution for several days. The rust will vanish, but the bare steel must be oiled or painted at once when dry after washing, however it can have phosphoric acid washed over it to slow any rust attack. Do not wash the acid away, just wipe away surplus, dry, and then wax, oil, or paint.
Stephen.
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Post by philbirch on Jun 17, 2014 17:25:38 GMT -5
I'm not sure there is a market for gunblack in the UK but the sugar treatment is doable. I'll give it a try. Thanks for some great ideas Stephen.
Did you get your Agimatic up and going then??
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