This arrived today from the Ebay seller. From a smoker's house, unfortunately, but the smell will dissipate eventually, I suppose. A bit grubby but seemingly in good condition.
Info for Hans:
Body number V45865
Lens Novar 7.5cm, 1:6.3, S/N 1267739
I have a query about Zeiss Ikon's naming system. I have a Bob 510, a Nettar 515 and this Ikonta 520. The three are identical apart from very minor details. Why three different names and not versions of the same name?
This is supposed to wean me away from more Ihagee cameras but I suspect it will result in even more Zeiss Ikon cameras. As I tell Bestbeloved, I don't smoke, drink or chase other women - are a few cameras so bad?
The name 'Bob' came originally from the Ernemann company. After the merger into Zeiss Ikon, the 'old' names were retained for a certain period of time, in this case the Bob was superceded by the Nettar. One of the reasons for doing so was the rationalisation of the different negative formats. And the streamlining of the different camera lines as well, which was a natural by-product of the merger. Some years later (I recall this from memory...) in the depression years, another rationalisation took place; for example most of the 'Tropical' types were lost, driven by the money issue. The Ikonta (and later the Super Ikonta) was envisaged as a higher price point camera than the Nettar. Books are written about this subject...
Haha, you've got the same problem as we all have:-)
Got my test film back from happy Snaps. Have a strange flare in most pictures - anyone any ideas as to what caused this? The lens looks ok, there are no light seals to go manky, and that blueish flare in the first picture looks very delimited. The final picture is not too bad.
The first suspect must be the bellows, try carefully stretching it to see if an inner fold has opened a slit. It cannot be the lens, it could possibly be a lagging shutter blade, that got better on the last shot. The main blades open and close giving the overall exposure, but one is slow and over exposes an area.
I am mentioning the shutter in passing, as there seems a defined "shadow" to the mark, indicating to my mind a pinhole leak, that is being shadowed by one of the folds of the bellows. This indicates near the front of the bellows to search. As it has cleared up in the last shot, maybe more of a tear than a hole, or a hole with a "flap" of the leatherette surface sometimes uncovering it.
Once the hole is found, add a glued on patch of black art paper, I use to use the Agfa printing paper bags!, and after the glue is dry, varnish with a cellulose clear varnish or quick dry type, or black car paint. To ensure the glue or varnish will not remain tacky, add a tiny pinch of talc, and rub gently, and vacuum away carefully.
Pinholes can be fixed with Tippex (protect with varnish when dry), black car paint, or varnish, but only on flat surfaces, if it is in the fold, then paper over, adding a thin cloth layer as well. Aero modelling tissue can also be used or lightweight modellers cloth. The black paper goes on first, then the cloth. For fold repairs use a good PVA glue, it remains a bit flexible.
A good source of light to find the holes is one of the new LED mains lights on Ebay, they are safe, and cool, but bright, using a quantity of LEDs to give a very bright light.
Get a large cardboard box, and cut a hole to fit the camera, and fit the bulb inside the bellows, tape the camera on to exclude any other light, and turn of the room lights, going over the bellows will now show the problem points, which you push a glass head pin into to show it when the room light is put back on.
If when the lights are turned back on it looks like a sewing pin cushion, you now have to learn to fold a new bellows!
It cannot be the lens, it could possibly be a lagging shutter blade, that got better on the last shot. The main blades open and close giving the overall exposure, but one is slow and over exposes an area.
Firing the shutter on 'T', I notice the shutter blades slow up when closing. Being a Derval shutter, there are only the two shutter blades and both are slowing up. When I fire the shutter on 1/25 I can still see the slow motion as the blades close. On 1/100 I cannot see this but that doesn't mean it is not still there.
This camera is not going to be a user - I prefer my nearly identical Nettar 525 with the Klio shutter - so I am not going to risk causing more damage by opening the shutter up. In the fullness of time I intend to get another Ikonta 520 with the upmarket Tessar and Compur shutter.
As it has two blades and both slow on closure, all it will do is run slow. It is multi bladed ones with a single blade with a faulty pivot that give "lop" sided exposure. Glad you found the holes, the Novar lens obviously is OK from the third shot. The second has a double exposure, I am sure this was deliberate......Double Lomo, a new type of photography, a worlds first....
Without the flare, that double exposure would be quite good. I hadn't notice, to be honest, I was too busy looking at the flare. With a Derval, there is no double exposure prevention possible and I sometimes forget to wind on with older 120 cameras.
Plasti dip sounds fine, if you can buy it in the UK. I have seen it in UK shops recently but only in large cans,(very expensive), although they advertise on the US market that small cans and spray cans are made. These days due to the Aircraft ban on all inflammable goods of this nature, it has to come by container. This sort of restriction stops most hobbies products in the States being easily available.
There does not appear to be another make that exactly matches Plasti dip, there are other silicone black sealers that could be used, and overall there will be equivalents, but with this one it may be more difficult.
Professionally in the past I used Devcon catalyst rubber, thin grade black, on bellows with good results, it is very like Plastic dip, but it is not made in small cans. Henkel, the German glue specialist do several equivalents, but again mainly in large cans, we are talking of about £30 plus worth for a small repair.
Evode do a rubber that is not a glue, but acts like Plasti coat, but again not in small practical quantities.
I will try to check what is available in the UK, and if the Plasti company has an importer.
There is some on Ebay UK, but the cheapest aerosol is £16-18, and and are £40+, along with "Vinyl wrap" which is an equivalent at £80 per large can. Some US sellers offer the items via the post, but there are two issues, this breaks Postal regulations nowadays, and also costs a lot of postage (£12.00 for aerosol size).
I think a far more viable alternation would be to use bath caulking, black, silicon grade. (not Acrylic). This is a sealer, and a bit thicker than unset Plasti dip, but is very durable etc when set. It takes a few hours to go off completely, during which time a fold bellows must remain "open", whilst setting up. Once dry it will not adhere to anything. It applies easily with a spatula, or toothpick, or screwdriver tip.
Bath and kitchen caulk sealer is available in small tubes in Wilkinsons and many other DIY shops, just make sure it is silicon based, the Acrylic versions might well work, Plasti dip is Acrylic vinyl based anyway, but I have never tried the Acrylic caulk as an alternative.
Another source is black Silicon liquid gasket for car engines, it is virtually the same as bath caulk.
If you cannot get the caulks in black, then simply mix lots of black powder paint into the silicon material, poster paint powder, or pure carbon black powder. This will turn it a very dark gray, which is light proof.
You can also use "Vinyl mold" Vinyl mould material in black grade, but it needs heat to melt it into the bellows cloth, a temperature controlled soldering iron set to very low heat will do it, it spreads like jam when hot, and has the advantage it sets as soon as cold, an instant repair. It is very durable indeed, and never sticks to itself.
As you can see, there are lots of ways to do it, I use the tissue and paint methods as it is so cheap, and most people have the materials around the home.
One thing I found does not work well, is to use a latex based glue, like Copydex. This used to be mentioned as working, it was doped with the poster black powder, and adheres well, but damp in the long term re-activates the dried glue, and it glues up the folds of the bellows, leaving a solid bellows!
Last Edit: Jul 21, 2013 14:04:24 GMT -5 by Stephen
I have just realised that I have some Plasi dip (may be another generic maker), in very bright red, it is the material tool handles like precision pliers and cutters are dipped in to make replacement rubber handle covers, however it came from the old optical & instrument company, now closed, and is in a gallon can, almost all used, and a new can is £85 on Ebay!
Black silicon sealer is available at Wickes at £2.99 for a cartridge to fit a squeeze handle for bath/kitchen caulking, I am sure any other DIY chain or builders merchant or plumbers supplier will have it. I am 100% sure this works on bellows, I have used it!