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Post by philbirch on Mar 9, 2015 17:00:44 GMT -5
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Stephen
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Still collecting.......
Posts: 2,718
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Post by Stephen on Mar 10, 2015 10:43:23 GMT -5
Has it got the glass pressure plate?....easily put right with modern foam and glue. The Periflex are very servicable, but there are not that many repairers with experience still around these days. The design was more complex in the shutter than rival makers, but simpler on the film transport, as it used no sprockets at all, depending on the large diameter film wind on spool to do the spacing of the frames.
I would be intersested in a report on the original standard lens perfomance, as they seem to vary quite a lot. Ken Corfield, the designer of the Periflex, wanted to keep the costs down, and the lens was produced very cheaply. He approached several lens makers, but the costs were still too much for the retail price he had in mind.
His intention was not really to bother with more than a few lenses as he saw the market as a second camera body to use with Leica lenses. Later models have Enna made lenses, from Germany.
The standard lens of this early type, that I have, is a good performer, dead sharp. But another example we had at work to refurbish was a bad performer, very soft.
The Periflex was as accurate as a Leica body, and gave really excellent results with any M39 glass, especialy telephotos and close up shots. The periscope should be accurate, it is adjustable, but usually remains OK.
Of course the camera is slower to use than a modermn reflex, but until mirrorless digital came along all the M39 glass did not fit reflex cameras. The Periflex makes using older Leica lenses a pleasure, and of course takes all the Russian lenses as well. (It cannot take the Russian 35mm F2.8 as it is too deep).
A popular standard lens was the TTH 50mm meant for the Reid camera, they were sold off by Rank as a job lot in the end.
Stephen.
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Stephen
Lifetime Member
Still collecting.......
Posts: 2,718
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Post by Stephen on Mar 10, 2015 13:43:57 GMT -5
It is the last version before the Model 2 was introduced, but the newer one was the simpler version, to regulate sales and the the MK1 stayed in production till the third version appeared. The lens may be a Enna produced one, the mounts were made in the UK, but the glass was German. These are usually excellent performers. Stephen.
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der84
Senior Member
Posts: 66
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Post by der84 on Mar 13, 2015 6:13:33 GMT -5
I purchased this today. Nice condition and works well. The periscope is a little dusty but I can use it. This is a versatile camera and may be the best body to use some of the adapted lenses on. I think its the third version of the Mk 1 Very nice Phil.
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Stephen
Lifetime Member
Still collecting.......
Posts: 2,718
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Post by Stephen on May 27, 2015 9:03:15 GMT -5
How is the Periflex fairing? Have you tried it all with film as yet......
Stephen.
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Post by philbirch on May 27, 2015 13:05:50 GMT -5
It has got the glass pressure plate. There is a piece of light seal velvet floating loose in the back of the camera. If I can figure out where it goes I can make new ones. I've not used the camera yet because of this - almost certainly a ruined film. later... I just had a look at it and apart from the velvet gone missing, it seems like the inside edges of the film compartment are glued in. One is almost off. the other very loose. Can you advise Stephen?
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Stephen
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Still collecting.......
Posts: 2,718
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Post by Stephen on May 27, 2015 14:44:53 GMT -5
I have never seen the ends loose like that, they should be possible to re-glue with epoxy glue....but check there are no screws anywhere in the area of contact with the loose piece. Any old glue that can be scaped off should be removed, and the area clean with strong cellelose thinners.
The light trap is only the groove on a Periflex, the later models hace cord in the groove.
Stephen.
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Post by philbirch on May 27, 2015 18:15:04 GMT -5
There is a bit of cord glued in and the piece on our right has a tapered end which pushes the cord into the grove. I've taken both bits out completely and removed as much glue as possible. The bit behind the take up spool is difficult and cellulose thinners won't touch it. Paint remover often does the job when shifting old glue that once held leather on. I'll try that and let you know how I get on. Thanks for your reply.
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Stephen
Lifetime Member
Still collecting.......
Posts: 2,718
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Post by Stephen on May 28, 2015 7:21:09 GMT -5
It looks like the later Gold Star models have a complete casting for the front and the ends, but the overall shape remains about the same, with the addition of a thicker base area to support the lower end of the take up spool.
If the foam behind the pressure plate is bad, then remove all traces and use a good sealed cell foam and cut out a replacement. To get the thickness, place the glass plate on the film track and put a small bead of Plasticine on the plate and slowly put on the back. Once opened the bead should be the thickness required, add about 1 mm more, when cutting the foam. To make sure the plasticine sticks only to the glass, put a spot of polish or oil on the back to stop it sticking. Clean with thinners afterwards.
Stephen.
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Post by philbirch on May 28, 2015 15:04:41 GMT -5
The foam holding the glass plate seems good, I gave it a little poke and it springs back rather than crumbles Si as the man said, "If it aint broke - don't fix it"
Popped a film in it today then never went out to take photos.
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