Zorki 4 Rangefinder Block

[wolves3012]

I just got hold of a Zorki 4K, very cheaply since there was a shutter problem. However, a quick peek shows that the curtains have become detached so I figure that's fixable. There's no apparent damage, it's just come un-glued.

The camera is absolutely pristine and looks brand new (I think it's a 1974, based on serial number), so I'm guessing the shutter failed very early in its life.

Now for the bad news. The viewfinder has a rather orangey tint to it, with a CLEAR rangefinder area and the "spot" doesn't contain a double-image. I'm thinking that the two prisms aren't right, maybe they weren't joined properly or something. Looking into the back of the block there's obvious coloured fringes too.

Now, I got the camera for almost nothing, and there's the shutter issue to resolve, but it's in such immaculate condition that I think it's worth fixing that. However, if all's lost on the view/rangefinder I'll just steal parts and put the lens on something else. Anyone know if this problem is fixable without too much trouble?

The lens (Jupiter 8, which I think is a good lens) fits fine and gives accurate readings on the rangefinder of my Zorki 1 - and it looks kind-of neat on there too - but will it work properly?

[greyhoundman]

If you go for the rebuild. I have a RF unit from a 4K

[kiev4a]

I think I also have a junk Z4 body with a rangefinder.

[wolves3012]

Thanks to both of you. You're actually a bit late, I dismantled it at the weekend! Since I'd committed to accepting it as parts, I dismantled it TOTALLY :-(

I have all the parts, so I might actually be able to figure how it all goes back, I usually can re-assemble anything I've taken apart. I didn't really pay total attention when stripping, wish I had now! It turned out that the one curtains had indeed come un-glued but I've stripped the lot off now! One of the tapes had become frayed as a result of the shutter being re-cocked I think, so it would only need that and re-assembly with good finder.

I'll give it some thought but I was planning on getting a working 4K anyway, so I might still just keep it for parts.

You've challenged me now guys! Actually, it's partially reassembled so I wouldn't lose parts, but I never bothered replacing the slow-speed mechanism, for instance. Hmmmmm....I wonder! As much as anything I took it apart to see how it "ticks", never having stripped one to this extent before. I learned quite a bit and would be less worried about stripping a good one for CLA etc, so it has served a useful purpose without destroying a priceless gem :-)

While I have your attention though, a question: The lens is the usual Jupiter 8 and is immaculate. Is it likely to be ok to use it on my Zorki 1 (1955, 1e or 1f depending whose system you go by). It fits OK and the rangefinder seems spot on but I know there might be register issues, what are your thoughts? Looks neat on that camera though and the extra speed might come in handy at times...

[kiev4a]

Yes, the Jupiter 8 can be used on the Zorki 1. I've used one on that model a lot. Unless the lens mount to film distance is right on the money it might be a little soft shooting wide open. Only way to find out is to try.

[wolves3012]

kiev4a said:

Yes, the Jupiter 8 can be used on the Zorki 1. I've used one on that model a lot. Unless the lens mount to film distance is right on the money it might be a little soft shooting wide open. Only way to find out is to try.

Well I don't know how close the LTF is, not got around to checking it properly yet, but the with the I22 on it it comes out spot on and I think it's not the original lens.

I ran a test film through after setting up the rangefinder and some basic checks. All the close-focus, wide-open test frames came out bang-on, but I guess that just means the lens/body combination is good? Trying the J8 on it though shows that the rangefinder coincides with the lens-scale exactly, so am I right to think that it will *probably* be close to correct?

Next film through the Zorki 1 will include giving it a try to see what happens anyway. I like the I22 but the J8 will be handy in poor light.