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Post by John Farrell on Sept 24, 2011 14:51:44 GMT -5
Back when I started collecting cameras, the first one I bought was a Yashica YK. That one was sold on years ago, but last week, one came up on our local auction site, Trademe. In a fit of nostalgia, I bought it.  It's in very good condition - the only fault is hardened grease in the lens focussing mechanism. I'm going to see if I can free this up without dismantling the camera. |
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Post by olroy2044 on Sept 24, 2011 19:01:14 GMT -5
John, let us know how that works out. I've got a couple rangefinders with the same issue that I would like to get working. Nice find! Roy
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Post by nikkortorokkor on Sept 25, 2011 7:54:54 GMT -5
John - a very handsome camera.
Although I've never managed to successfully un-gum congealed lens grease without disassembling the focus helix, I'm all for your approach as a first resort. I reckon my success rate for successfully reassembling the helix must be a shade over 50 percent.
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mickeyobe
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Post by mickeyobe on Sept 25, 2011 12:58:51 GMT -5
Lighter fluid.
The magic potion. (often)
Mickey
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Dave
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Post by Dave on Sept 25, 2011 14:19:34 GMT -5
Friday, Sept 23, Nikon F, Photomic Tn finder, Osawa 35-70 zoom lens, camera in mint minus condition after cleaning the dust up, meter working accurately, It must have been in a closet for 20 years. What can you say about a small, off-brand zoom? -- $30.95 at my local Goodwill. Dave
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Post by John Farrell on Sept 25, 2011 14:31:31 GMT -5
Well, I've looked for ways to get a solvent into the lens helix, but it doesn't look possible.
I've also tried heating the camera with a hair dryer, without result - the focussing did free up a little.
So it looks like I'll have to strip the camera. Luckily, I still have some notes I took when I overhauled the previous YK, including how to reassemble the lens helix correctly.
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mickeyobe
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Post by mickeyobe on Sept 25, 2011 17:06:54 GMT -5
Well, I've looked for ways to get a solvent into the lens helix, but it doesn't look possible. I've also tried heating the camera with a hair dryer, without result - the focussing did free up a little. So it looks like I'll have to strip the camera. Luckily, I still have some notes I took when I overhauled the previous YK, including how to reassemble the lens helix correctly. John, A hypodermic syringe can put the stuff if not directly into then at the edge of the finest openings where some may seep in where it might do some good. Mickey |
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Post by John Farrell on Sept 25, 2011 21:50:28 GMT -5
This morning, I fixed the focusing on the camera. First step was to remove the top plate - the wind lever comes off by undoing the pin head screw - I used the pointed lens spanner for this  Then after removing the rewind lever, the slotted lens spanner took off the nut below  Then just 2 screws to remove, and the top plate is off  Next, the front plate...2 screws on the side, 1 above the lens.  The lens has to be set to its closest focussing distance so the plate can be turned to access the screws holding on the front - there are 4 of them. First, though, the leatherette is peeled back.  You can see 2 screws above. The other 2 are in the opposite corners. The camera front is now free.  There are two lugs securing the lens to the camera front, and in front of each of these is a recess. With the lens at full extension, the focussing helix can be seen inside.  A few drops of white spirit in each recess freed the lens. I also put a little light oil in each recess. When replacing the camera front, care must be taken that the shutter release lever (on the left) is as far up as it can go. Don't ask how I know this.....  |
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mickeyobe
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Post by mickeyobe on Sept 26, 2011 6:10:29 GMT -5
John,
Excellent descriptions and illustrations of what to me would be an intimidating procedure.
However, until my hypodermics and lighter fluid fail me I shall delay the surgery and stick with my simpler, less demanding and certainly less thorough squirt and hope operations.
Mickey
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Sept 26, 2011 10:03:35 GMT -5
The only trouble with lighter fluid is it can migrate to places where you don't want it--get between elements, etc. I once tried to use some on the gear train of a FED 2, it dissolved the shellac holding the curtains on the drums and. . . . .TRAIN WRECK!
W
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mickeyobe
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Post by mickeyobe on Sept 26, 2011 10:29:28 GMT -5
Wayne,
I used to use alcohol until it rubberized the blades on a lovely old Una Cameo.
Since then I have used lighter fluid with no problems.
I don't flood the mechanism. That is why a syringe is so useful.
I think you should have used vodka with your Fed, tovarich.
Mickey
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daveh
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Post by daveh on Sept 26, 2011 11:47:32 GMT -5
It's super having the photos to go with the text.
Alcohol: the trouble with alcohol as a term is that it is a chemical name for a group of allied chemicals. We use it most for the alcohol we drink i.e. ethanol or ethyl alcohol. However, amongst others, there are also meths (methanol) and isopropyl alcohol. Surgical spirit, or rubbing alcohol, is usually a combination of ethanol and isopropanol in the UK, but may differ elsewhere.
So, the question is: are we all talking about the same alcohol?
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