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Post by Peter S. on May 21, 2008 4:18:23 GMT -5
... I had to get the Hassie out. :-) 50mm Distagon, Fuji Provia 100F, a bit of curves adjustment. Hope You like it. Best regards Peter
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Post by Peter S. on May 17, 2008 16:46:00 GMT -5
It immediately reminded my on my youth (in the late sixties and early seventies). When my Grandma prepared Sauerkraut a guy had been hired that got a huge board with two blades of a knife. The cabbage had been cut into two halves, and these were moved back and forth on the board and over the blades in order to get these slices.
Apparently it did not pay to have such an apparatus at home for a exclusive use. Btw, that guy came with a tiny moped - the board was considerably longer.
Best regards Peter
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Post by Peter S. on May 17, 2008 16:36:21 GMT -5
Bob, all these posts should make it clear: we all suffer with You! I second the idea of using acetone. Carefully. In the end acetone for sure is less pecarious than WD40. I thought even the word "WD40" was banned here... But what I would like to say is this: when You start drilling it is of utmost importance to use a sharp drill. Myself I would most likely use a center drill. First do a small ding by a needle point. Then carefully use the center drill. Center drills are not to widely spread - too few of us are trained mechanics. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drill_bit#Center_drill_and_spotting_drillCaveat: use a center drill at relatively low speeds. If You prefer to use a classical drill then use one looking like the PCB through hole drills in the Wikipedia article. These small drills should be operated as fast as possible. But I'd try it with a small center drill (3..5mm outer diameter). Best regards Peter
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Post by Peter S. on May 16, 2008 15:32:27 GMT -5
Hi, no it is an ordinary thread. The same as for the filters. Yupp, try it with the lighter fluid first.
P
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Post by Peter S. on May 14, 2008 7:01:54 GMT -5
Then I'd carefully drill two 1.0mm holes into the opposite sides of the ring. Use a sharp needle to prepare a small round mark so that the drill won't run away. It might be best to fix the drilling machine and move the lens. All in all I would expect the ring to consist of pretty soft aluminium. You should be able to move the ring by getting into these small holes.
Sorry, this is the hard way. ;-)
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Post by Peter S. on May 12, 2008 9:54:59 GMT -5
Got my brains working to find out what is is ;-)
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Post by Peter S. on May 11, 2008 9:00:12 GMT -5
PS: prior to removing any screw, I'd loosen it a bit and carefully check, whether it really holds the part I am about to get off. It is also wise to mark all tubes and rings that might have to do with focus or aperture control - just in case You unscrew them unintentionally, then You have a fair chance to get it back without the need to readjust anything.
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Post by Peter S. on May 11, 2008 8:54:25 GMT -5
Hi Bob,
on the site I referred to it is shown how to unscrew the complete front element. I'd start in this way. Obviously I would not remove the aperture mechanism as for less experienced lens mechanics this easily can result in difficulties to get the thing reassembled (not to speak of the high probability of loosing the tiny steel ball).
I would then disassemble the front element from the first element going deeper. The construction code is PF - 6 elements in 5 groups, and I think three should be three individual lenses in the front group. I.e. unscrewing the holding ring for two lenses will be enough to completely disassemble the front group's elements.
Of course You could also try to individualize the lenses from the mounted front group - but unscrewing the front group seems to be simple for all these older Rokkors - so I'd start like that.
Best regards Peter
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Post by Peter S. on May 11, 2008 6:59:02 GMT -5
Hi Bob, I would try to get some inspiration from here: sa-ss.hp.infoseek.co.jp/index1.htmlThis is the best place I know. I've been in the MC W.Rokkor-HG 2.8/35 (success) and in the MC Rokkor 1.9/55 (pretty identical to the MC Rokkor 1.7/55 - spring broken during disassembly that presses the tiny ball into the aperture stops). These lenses should look like the MC Rokkor 1.4/58). Good Luck! And best regards Peter PS: not much time to spend here anymore - need to look for a new job :-(
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Post by Peter S. on Apr 14, 2008 4:22:46 GMT -5
Hell! The first incarnation is pretty common in Minolta MD, and prices are down below 20 € (30$) right now...
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Post by Peter S. on Apr 14, 2008 4:13:52 GMT -5
IMHO the most versatile lens is the normal, i.e. plain 50mm for 35mm film cameras. And then it depends on the type of photographs one does take. Shooting people a short tele will be the second best focal length. Besides a telephoto will result in a certain concentration of the photographic theme, which I assume to be a good thing especially for the less experienced pg.
On the other hand most of us rather do landscapes or want to keep memories of their travels. And then a wide angle in indispensable. Often there are situations where a strong WA as a 24mm lens will deliver the best results. Going wider than 24mm is only useful in quite few situations while the lenses are rare (for the first reason) and therefore expensive. The mentioned Tokina 3.5/17 is a reasonably good ultra wide available at reasonable cost (at least for Minolta MD, don't know what the situation is like in Canon or Nikon land).
Quite a few pg's tend to use a mild (read: 35mm) WA as their personal normal lens. In the hand of an experience pg this usually works pretty well. One needs to be very careful however not to end up with images that convey an impression of emptiness. The motto is: fill the frame - and: go closer to Your subject. If that impertinence is not Your thing, then You should better stick with the 50mm and use a WA only where really necessary (I am one of these people myself...).
Best regards Peter
PS: hope this thread is not already dead right now...
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Post by Peter S. on Apr 14, 2008 3:53:45 GMT -5
Dear Wayne,
it is very sad to hear Your report. I can feel Your loss. My dog is nearly 11 now and old and tired. I am sure we invested our share to make the lives of our canine friends a worthwhile time - but in the end, that does not make it more easy to say farewell.
My best wishes for You and Your family & Best regards Peter
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Almost
Aug 31, 2007 6:48:08 GMT -5
Post by Peter S. on Aug 31, 2007 6:48:08 GMT -5
Hi Ron,
I decided to cut the rate of acquiring lenses rather than to limit the numbers. I would be glad to bring the number of Rokkor glass down to 50 - but in fact there is still a slight increase.
I did resist in spending 300 € on a 2.5/180 Tamron SP last week - I wonder by myself, how I managed to keep my fingers still. Must be the figures on the bank account... the same happened for some fish eye Rokkors (but these are really horrifying expensive). But when one of these MC 2.8/21 lenses comes up again, I'll be ready for the fight ;-) I just missed a first generation MD W.Rokkor 2.8/35, which sold for only 17.5 € yesterday.
And hell, my stepson started playing golf. I can assure You that golf club collecting is by all means just as serious as lens or camera collecting. Maybe a bit more expensive, as no one seems to be willing to play second hand clubs.
Chess - OK. But You needed to forget about everything beyond those 64 fields. Never heard the reports on the behavior of these weired chess grand masters.
Best regards Peter
PS: sorry for the seduction ;-)
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Post by Peter S. on Apr 30, 2007 5:06:25 GMT -5
The powers that be have chosen, to ask for M42 for the annual photo contest - they seem to react on excessive Minolta-talk here P
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Post by Peter S. on Feb 7, 2007 15:10:31 GMT -5
Dear Wayne, I eagerly await the arrival of an Arca Swiss camera that could stop my Minolta talk, but firstly it hasn't arrived here so far. And second it would be off topic here. I seem to have a certain indulgence to out-of-fashion camera systems. I started a thread on film supply for the Arca, and it was obvious that this topic didn't hit the nerve of the camera collectors dwelling in this message board... But back to the Minolta-speak: I also visit the Manual focus forum at oomz.net/mf/index.php, and there Minolta manual focus isn't a concern - the Manual Minoltians seem to become extinct. Here is one of the last refuges around (beside a couple of Yahoo groups). So forgive me... On the other hand, You might run into a SR-T with a 50mm MC Rokkor for only a few $$s that You might try it out yourself (I think the label Nikon alone has a higher value than that). Best regards Peter
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