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Post by olddocfox on Jul 31, 2016 21:33:22 GMT -5
I for Incident light meter (top) as opposed to reflected light meter (bottom). The incident light meter was held at the subject position with its light gathering hemisphere illuminated by the light falling on the subject. In contrast, a reflected light meter was aimed at the subject (often from the camera position) and measured the light reflected from the subject.
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Post by olddocfox on Jul 25, 2016 17:35:52 GMT -5
H is for Hasselblad - the tiny Swedish SLR that would fit within your Graflex. While Graflex eventually brought simplification to SLR lenses by introducing the automatic diaphragm, Hasselblad introduced unneeded complication by allowing Zeiss to couple the aperture and shutter-speed (for constant EVS) in their second series (501 & 503) of cameras.
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Post by olddocfox on Jul 15, 2016 20:32:30 GMT -5
F is for f/stop, the ratio of a lens' focal length to the diameter of its iris opening. Above f/ 4.5 (wide open for an f4.5 lens), below stopped down to f/11.
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Post by olddocfox on Jul 11, 2016 16:58:45 GMT -5
D for Super D, the last and best of the big single lens reflexes built by Graflex. These introduced Torkel Korling's patented automatic diaphragm lens mount (actually a preset stop-down mount). Shown is my 1946 3 1/4" x 4 1/4" (9 x 12 cm) with its excellent "automatic diaphragm" 152 mm f/4.5 Ektar lens.
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Post by olddocfox on Jul 8, 2016 10:44:40 GMT -5
B is for Bilora, makers of the Biloret tripods made of Brass.
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Post by olddocfox on Jul 4, 2016 20:27:03 GMT -5
W for Wetzlar, West Germany where all of those lovely Leicas were crafted.
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Post by olddocfox on Jul 3, 2016 13:50:19 GMT -5
U is for UV or Ultra Violet filter - the World's best lens cap!
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Post by olddocfox on Jul 2, 2016 8:27:26 GMT -5
T is for Tripod, in this case a Kodak Folding Head Tripod (circa 1902). Learn more about this great accessory from my PDF file.
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Post by olddocfox on Jul 1, 2016 7:59:19 GMT -5
R is for Rollei ...
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Post by olddocfox on Jun 30, 2016 22:59:55 GMT -5
O, of course, is for Olympus.
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Post by olddocfox on Jun 30, 2016 16:17:42 GMT -5
Dear Mickey, Thank you for your very kind comments, Sir! It's fun to engage in a running contest with an accomplished gentleman, and you are clearly both. With best personal regards, George PS - The Sigma 600 mm f/8 was a nice piece of gear (but big and heavy!). It didn't match the smaller Nikon and Vivitar "Solid Cat" mirrors in performance, but it far outclassed the many 500 mm f/8 offerings from lesser vendors. The design was well thought out and executed - the lens had a knob-lockable rotating tripod mount and a small sliding drawer that accepted small filters (provided).
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Post by olddocfox on Jun 30, 2016 10:23:01 GMT -5
M is for Mirror lens (OM-mount Sigma 600 mm f/8 shown on Panasonic G1).
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Post by olddocfox on Jun 28, 2016 12:49:02 GMT -5
K is for Kreuznach (short for " Bad Kreuznach, Rhineland-Palatinate, Germany") where Jos. Schneider Optische Werke GmbH has been building fine lenses since 1913.
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Post by olddocfox on Jun 14, 2016 14:23:34 GMT -5
I is for Ihagee, makers of Exakta and Exa cameras and accessories including interchangeable eye-level pentaprisms and waist-level finders and extension tubes.
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Post by olddocfox on Jun 14, 2016 13:50:06 GMT -5
Dear belgiumreporter, You latest post was a valiant effort. I liked your hanging newspaper target idea. This might work better for you with a fixed light source (or a relatively consistent natural light source). For many things, I have had good luck using inexpensive clamp-on work lights with spun aluminum reflectors. These are sold by home repair supply stores quite inexpensively. I like to use daylight-rated (5600 K) CFL bulbs in them to keep the heat down. I have had good luck posting multiple photos from PhotoBucket to CameraCollector. My aged computer still runs Windows 7. I use Google Chrome as my browser. It allows me to open multiple windows. I use one window for CameraCollector, one for Photobucket and one for Google Drive if I am going to add a PDF to my post. This makes it pretty easy to add photos or files where you want them. The biggest problem I have with a collection of "Test Photos" is keeping them straight! The best answer I have found is to have the ancillary data (lens, aperture, etc) written on something in the picture. But, you have to be careful to delete any test shots made with the wrong data card! Thanks again for undertaking this work. You results will be useful to many of us. With best regards, George
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