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Post by byuphoto on May 7, 2007 9:38:06 GMT -5
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Post by kiev4a on May 7, 2007 11:03:29 GMT -5
OUCH!
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galenk
Lifetime Member
Posts: 206
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Post by galenk on May 7, 2007 11:52:33 GMT -5
Hey! this is a family forum, and that photo is a bit to graphic to show the kids. ;D ;D ;D
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Post by doubs43 on May 7, 2007 12:10:19 GMT -5
WOW! Talk about "walking wounded"!!
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Post by herron on May 7, 2007 14:22:43 GMT -5
Ouch! is right. That certainly had to take the fun out of the afternoon. Odd thing is, I've seen similar items on evilBay, being sold as "haven't taken any pictures with it, so it's being sold as is...." LOL!!! ;D OK...so I stretched the truth a little...they were "need a little fixing" listings!
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Post by byuphoto on May 7, 2007 16:32:29 GMT -5
did you notice that the "delicate" electronics still worked!!!!!!
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PeterW
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Post by PeterW on May 7, 2007 18:24:56 GMT -5
Oops! . I hope he was insured. I think it's worth setting on a plinth as an ornament. It might win a prize in a modern sculpture exhibition. Just think, Wayne. That could have been your camera when you fell over - shudder. PeterW
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mickeyobe
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Resident President
Posts: 7,280
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Post by mickeyobe on May 7, 2007 18:42:54 GMT -5
Mickey ( Speechless for a change.)
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Post by byuphoto on May 7, 2007 18:55:13 GMT -5
so much for the fragile digital electronics
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PeterW
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Post by PeterW on May 7, 2007 20:43:32 GMT -5
In my limited experience the 'delicate' electronics on modern cameras don't seem to give a lot of trouble. Most of the components are 'solid state' which don't 'wear out', and will put up with all sorts of jolts and jars, the same as in cell phones and little personal radios and music players. The only electronic bits that I've had trouble with (on two cameras) have been carbon-contact diaphragm switches, and they're sealed so you can't get in them to try a switch cleaner. All you can do is short out the contact terminals. Then if the LCD bit lights up and things work you know the switch is faulty. I've got a spare Canon T70 body on which everything works except that the ASA and shutter speeds will 'switch' up, but not come down again until you switch off and switch on again. From the circuit diagram I discovered that all the 'down' switch does is short pin 14 on the main chip to circuit board 'earth'. I did this with a piece of wire, and the 'down' setting worked fine. Only problem is, the up and down switches are together in a small sealed block bonded to the top plate. Canon UK say it's easy to change and will 'unbond' with a spot of alcohol, but even then I can't get into the switch block without breaking it. Canon UK hasn't had the part in stock for years, and I can't find a broken 'junk' body to use as a donor - they're too reliable ! . Apart from switches and battery contacts, most problems on electronic cameras - or so I gather from chatting with others - happen with the semi-mechanical bits triggered by the electronics, like shutters, focus motor linkages, wind-on motor drives and suchlike. But I don't like tinkering with the things. I prefer innards where you can see what does what, and you can't see electricity - at least not without a meter. Maybe I'm over-cautious, but even if I can follow the electronic circuit diagram and locate the parts I'm always apprehensive that with, for example, continuity checking, the battery inside the meter will burn out something designed to take only a milliamp or less. PeterW
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