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Post by Microdad on Jan 26, 2006 20:38:50 GMT -5
I just received my first Mamiya 1000 DTL today. It is very clean and seems to be practically in mint condition, almost new. There is a couple of issues with it I'm hoping someone here can help.
When I set the shutter speed to 1 second, it is more like 3 or 4 seconds. At 1/2 sec setting it is more like 1 second, etc. Of course, faster shutter speeds than this, I can't tell how accurate they are. Can anyone put me on the right track as far as how to get started fixing this problem?
Also, when you look through the viewfinder, a fuzzy shape appears on the bottom center (like something is in front of the lens). I took the lens off and the mirror seems to have part of the reflective surface gone, a rectangular shaped portion of the mirror. I'm assuming this is normal (perhaps the light meter?). Can anyone shed some light on this?
Thank you in advance, and please forgive my ignorance! LOL!
Steve
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Post by vintageslrs on Jan 26, 2006 20:47:44 GMT -5
I defer to Ron Herron on this one......
Paging Mr. Ron Herron........
Bob
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Post by herron on Jan 27, 2006 1:24:11 GMT -5
The rectangular shape seen through the viewfinder of a Mamiya DTL is normal (although I'm not sure it should be "fuzzy")!  ![]() www.mamiya35collectors.com/TL viewfinder.jpg[/img] I'm assuming, Steve, that the spot meter area is the shape you are referring to? As to the slower than normal shutter speeds, there are adjustments for the front and rear shutters found under the bottom plate  Turning each spring shaft counterclockwise, curtain speed is increased; turning them clockwise (detaching the pawl, so it does not snag or interfere) curtain speed is decreased. This should rightfully be done with pulse counters and a focal plane shutter tester, to keep from overdoing either adjustment. Movements should be in very small increments. When there are no testers, wind the front curtain shaft 3-1/2 turns and the rear curtain spring shaft 3 to 3-1/2 turns counterclockwise (increasing speed) from a completely loosened starting point, and this should approximate the right speeds. All this being said, there are other adjustments for the faster speeds that are under the top plate...and I don't even like to attempt removing that any more. I've messed up too many nice users doing it, turning them into pretty parts cameras!  U.T. Photo, or Essex Camera (and several other services listed on the "Related Links" page of my Mamiya web site www.mamiya35collectors.com/related_links.htm) still work on these, and I don't hesitate now to send my cameras to one of them, rather than mess with them myself! www.utphoto.comwww.essexcamera.comI hope this helps!   |
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Post by litesong on Jan 27, 2006 1:56:51 GMT -5
Hi...Bob's right. Herron will have the last word. But I have a Mamiya DSX camera which may be similar to your Mamiya DTL. These cameras, assuming they are similar, have 2 methods of light metering, averaging & spot. What looks like a defect on the mirror is part of the light metering mechanism for the spot meter system. It is also what you see fussily in the viewfinder when the lens is in place & is the area whose lite level is being monitored when your camera is in the spot metering mode. If your Mamiya DTL is like my Mamiya DSX, the switch to select the spot meter can be found on the lower front of the camera just left of the lens mount as you hold the camera as if to take pictures. This moving switch uncovers either the letter A or S, for average or spot metering. As to the slowness of the shutter at shutter speed indications higher than the machine takes...many cameras have 2 methods of shutter speed control, one for slow speeds, one for higher speeds. Tho your shutter is slow at low speeds, it may be OK at higher speeds. One nice thing with your manual camera is that while your shutter is slower than its indicator on the camera's top, you can compensate for this slowness by letting your meter needle ride low when you set aperture or shutter speeds. You can do this by "stopping your lens down" (set the lens diaphragm to a smaller size) or by setting the shutter speed to the next higher speed. These compensations should get your low speed exposures closer to proper exposures than before. With practice you should get very accurate slow speed exposures. As I said, maybe your higher shutter speeds will be more accurate. However, you can really see the shutter speed up compared to lower shutter speeds say up to 1/30th or 1/60th of a second by the following method: Unhinge the camera film back & open up the back. You will be able to see the camera shutter directly. Now, while not touching the shutter, wind the film winder to cock the shutter. While viewing the shutter directly(& keeping your fingers away from the shutter), trigger the shutter release. You will see the shutter curtains cross the area that would normally expose the film to light. You should be able to see the curtain opening vary as you trigger the shutter while using differing shutter speeds from 1 second to 1/30th or 1/60th of a second. With a bit of practice you may determine whether your shutter improves its accuracy compared to its very slow shutter speeds up to say 1/8th or 1/15 second. Up to 1/30th or 1/60th second you should be able to tell that your shutter is speeding up compared to previous settings. As I said Herron will fill you in better. But this post should get you going to better pictures with your camera. Grace & peace to you, Steve...litesong
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Post by Microdad on Jan 27, 2006 2:34:56 GMT -5
Wow, this is a really great forum! I truly do appreciated this help from you folks. I figured (correctly) the "fuzzy" area was the light meter. As per Lite's advice, I went through all shutter speeds shooting each many times over. As far as I can tell, the speeds from 1/15 on up seem to be very consistent. The speeds from 1/8 on down are the ones that are inconstent and, for the most part, tend to be slower than they probably should be. Tommorrow, I shall be following Ron's instructions to a T and (for the first time) venturing into the mysterious and unknown world of camera repair ;D If I screw it up too bad I'll probably contact one of the repair facilities you recommend Ron. But on the other hand, part of my goal of getting into camera collecting is to learn how to repair them. (easier said than done, no doubt  ) Thanks again all Steve Maybe a good test would be to set the camera up beside a known good camera and shoot a roll (same film and settings) through each, then compare exposures to see if they match/differ. Any thoughts on this? |
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Post by herron on Jan 27, 2006 10:02:48 GMT -5
Steve: I overlooked something while trying to make a technical reply at 1:30 in the morning  ...if the camera has been sitting for a long time, it may just need a little "exercise" to bring things back in line. I would try firing the shutter at various speeds for a while, to see if things loosen up a bit and start to work more like they should, before trying to assemble/disassemble anything! No sense ruining a perfectly good instrument that is, like I am myself sometimes, just in need of a little warm-up time to function best! |
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Post by Microdad on Jan 28, 2006 12:33:22 GMT -5
I tackled this job early this morning before the kids got up and I do believe the problem is fixed. WOO HOO!
Yesterday I spent the morning "exercising" the camera but with no change so I went ahead and performed surgery.
I had to make a tool out of a paperclip to remove the button on the bottom (that releases the spindle to rewind the film) which, I found out is left hand threaded. I realeased the cog allowing the spring shafts to unwind. After adjusting them the first time, I tried it and the shutter seized after depressing it. (this is when I started getting nervous) For a long time I couldn't get it to catch while winding it to depress it again. (this is when I started freaking out) Finally I traced the linkage and triggered the shutter, it then was working great. I ended up turning the spring shafts about 5 times to get the right speed. I then used my wrist watch to time the 1 second setting and it is as close to a second as I can (humanly) tell.
This great, I'll be tearing up the town with this camera this weekend!
Thank you so much everyone ;D
Steve
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Post by herron on Jan 28, 2006 17:09:44 GMT -5
Glad to know it worked out! ;D I should have mentioned the left-hand thread on the rewind release...that throws everybody at first. Nice idea making a spanner wrench out of a paperclip! I'm surprised it took 5 turns to get the shutters in sync...the 3...3-1/2 info comes right out of the Mamiya service manual. "All's well that ends well," of course. Make sure to let us see some of the pix! |
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...if the camera has been sitting for a long time, it may just need a little "exercise" to bring things back in line. I would try firing the shutter at various speeds for a while, to see if things loosen up a bit and start to work more like they should, before trying to assemble/disassemble anything!