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Post by vintageslrs on Jan 15, 2011 13:14:34 GMT -5
probably from an old camera you just bought and it had film in it and probably one or zero exp. used. And you want to save that roll to use? But when you went to rewind it--it went too far and the film is completely in the canister. I know there is a tool made for that purpose---but they have never worked for me. And PeterW has used tweezers successfully but again that has not worked for me. But this has:
Removing 35mm film tab from canister.
Tools: pliers, screwdriver, Case peanut knife.
1. In a very dark place 2. Use screwdriver to pry open slightly the canister slot…trying to open the wind stem area more than the rest. 3. Rotate the wind stem till just the beginning of a click is heard. 4. Insert Case peanut knife (longer blade) into the slot nearest as possible to the wind stem end of canister. 5. Pry up with blade as you try to pull out the blade. 6. If you caught one of the holes of film end—film end will come out with blade. 7. If not try again. After film tab is out…. 8. Use pliers to try to uniformly re-bend and re-seal the canister slot to as close as possible to factory.
Bob
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Post by olroy2044 on Jan 15, 2011 15:25:40 GMT -5
I'm going to try that, Bob. I keep several old rolls around to test advance mechanisms with. Since I started messing with auto-winders/rewinders, I have managed to over-rewind every one of them!  Roy
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mickeyobe
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Post by mickeyobe on Jan 15, 2011 16:00:03 GMT -5
Bob,
The Kodak ML 135 Film Extractor, Model M really works. It is well designed and sturdy and comes with good instructions which must be followed.
I have tried a number of other extractors with little or no success.
Mickey.
It cost me $19.99 years ago and has earned its keep.
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daveh
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Post by daveh on Jan 16, 2011 0:30:47 GMT -5
I made one myself several years ago, which worked very well. I used a thin sheet of brass with small tongues that would engage the sprocket holes of the rewound film.
35mm film canisters have changed over the years. It was fairly easy to open the older types in the darkroom. Then (was it Kodak which started it?) manufacturers starting almost welding the ends on and what was once fairly simple became a bit of a nightmare.
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Post by vintageslrs on Jan 16, 2011 9:33:49 GMT -5
Roy--good luck with the attempt! Mickey--Is the Kodak ML 135 Film Extractor, Model M still made and sold? The other brands I have tried work zero out of a hundred tries for me--lol. daveh--your homemade one sounds pretty good to me.
Bob
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mickeyobe
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Post by mickeyobe on Jan 16, 2011 10:05:42 GMT -5
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Post by vintageslrs on Jan 16, 2011 14:31:23 GMT -5
Thanks-Mickey. I checked on ebay but none were listed. I think for now, I'll stick with my method.....  Bob
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Post by milosdevino on Apr 3, 2011 6:26:38 GMT -5
A method I have used many times is as follows. First take another unexposed roll of film, pull the leader out an extra inch or two, and then put the leader in your mouth. While the leader is in your mouth moistening, carefully turn the spool of the "lost" roll around until you hear the leader inside gently "click" past the slot. Now, push the wet leader of the unexposed roll into the slot of the lost roll, making sure that the film is positioned so that the emulsions come into contact with one another. It should push in for about 2 1/2 inches. It will then stick to the film in the lost can. Check that the films are stuck together by turning the spool of the lost roll, it should pull the other leader in. Now gently pull the leader of the wet film out and it should pull the lost leader with it. I know this sounds improbable, but it works really well. I learnt it when I was a photographers assistant from another assistant. p.s. let both films dry before using.
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mickeyobe
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Post by mickeyobe on Apr 3, 2011 7:45:13 GMT -5
milosdevino,
Ingenious! It sounds so logical.
Mickey
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Post by vintageslrs on Apr 3, 2011 9:53:47 GMT -5
milosdevino--That does like it will work and sounds much easier than my method.
Next time I find myself in that spot....I'll try your way first.
thanks Bob
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Post by 33dollars on Mar 9, 2012 12:58:10 GMT -5
A method I have used many times is as follows. First take another unexposed roll of film, pull the leader out an extra inch or two, and then put the leader in your mouth. While the leader is in your mouth moistening, carefully turn the spool of the "lost" roll around until you hear the leader inside gently "click" past the slot. Now, push the wet leader of the unexposed roll into the slot of the lost roll, making sure that the film is positioned so that the emulsions come into contact with one another. It should push in for about 2 1/2 inches. It will then stick to the film in the lost can. Check that the films are stuck together by turning the spool of the lost roll, it should pull the other leader in. Now gently pull the leader of the wet film out and it should pull the lost leader with it. I know this sounds improbable, but it works really well. I learnt it when I was a photographers assistant from another assistant. p.s. let both films dry before using. And it tastes dreadful. But it does work in the field if you don't have an extractor. I think its better to moisten a finger and rub the leader, that way you can't ingest those chemicals.
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mickeyobe
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Post by mickeyobe on Mar 9, 2012 14:36:47 GMT -5
If film does continue to be used I can see a whole new market opening up for flavoured film of one's choice. Mickey 
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Post by grenouille on Mar 9, 2012 15:12:45 GMT -5
Unfortunately most of the AF and Auto Wind cameras since they appeared tend to wind everything into the cannister. For me, if I have an auto rewind, I use the film to the end, black & White that is,I then use a plier to open the cannister and load the film into the developing tank, all in total darkness.
Have heard about the film extractor, maybe I should get one of these,
Hye
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daveh
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Post by daveh on Mar 9, 2012 15:45:47 GMT -5
Milos, that seems a good idea in an emergency. No doubt it is why photographers have assistants - they let them do the spitting.
Welcome to the forum. Never has there been such a practical first post!
Of course, even with those cameras with auto-rewind it is possible to prevent the film fully rewinding either by switching off or opening the back as the tone changes (caused by the tongue become free of the winding spool).
Dave.
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Post by grenouille on Mar 13, 2012 18:10:19 GMT -5
Dave Afraid to lose a couple of last shots so back to the dark room, that way the whole roll is safe
Hye
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