Are there any experts for Meopta Flexaret in this board? I have one, and I think it is a V, but some parts are from Va, Vb or VI.
From the Info of this very detailed page I can find all the details Meopta Infos
Camera serial is 82180 It has the Prontor Shutter witn 1/300s -> V or Vb Viewing lens ist Anastigmat 3/80 #75348 -> all V models Taking lens is the Belar 3.5/80 #194073 -> all V models It has the winding knob with the push button -> Va. And then it has the label automat under flexaret which is from the VI It also came with a VI on the leather case.
Meopta models overlap qute a bit, key is, does it take 35mm film, and the more strips on each side of the lens board (later models). I think yours is the Meopta VI Automat in black, less common than the grey version I have. Exellent picture takers, every bit as good as a Rolliecord, try :- www.tlr-cameras.com/Czech/ Stephen
It can take 35mm film. The more I read the more I come to the conclusio it is a Va with the old Prontor SVS shutter from V (max speed 1/300sec.) and new VI label and case. The VI should have Bajonet for the lens hood. Mine still has the old mount. The winding know is different on the VI too.
I really like the camera. When I got it the shutter was stiff on long speeds. I had it cleanded at a shop in Vienna. Today I finished my first roll of film, a long expired Fomapan F17, ISO 40
Now I'm searching for development times for that film. I cannot find any data in the web. And the old foma developer mentioned in the film box are not available any longer.
The film, if old, will be best pocessed in a dilute developer like Rodinol, agited for about a minute, then shaken and bang the tank to remove bubbles, and left at process temp (20c), for about 12 minutes min, 20 max, all times are always minimums. Negatives that are dense after processing to completion are dense due to overexposure, not over development. Old film has lost sensistivety, and if you have only borderline correct exposure due to old shutter, it is likely to be under exposure, so you can risk longer development. But like all methods it is open to risks, the film may not have lost speed, and if the negs are overexposed, then longer times are going to mean dense negatives. If you are sure the film is old, and the shutter, and you, have done your best, then risk up to 30 minutes to ensure the negs come through. Rodinal is well known to work at extended times without ruining the neg. Rodinal is still made, and available on the net. Stephen.
Last Edit: May 11, 2015 15:14:18 GMT -5 by Stephen
Regarding my old Foma F17 I wrote to foma in CZ and got immediate answer:
--- We recommend following process:
1) Preferably contrast developer Fomadon LQR (dilution 1+10), 20°C, 12-14 min, agitation of the spiral developing tank continuously during the first 30 seconds, then during the first 10 seconds in every minute.
2) Or to reduce the greyness of the film (due to his age), you can add to the developer a potassium bromide (KBr) in a ration 2 g/1 litre of solution. However, it is necessary to increase the developing time - Fomadon LQR (1+10), 20°C, 18-20 min. ----
I ordered Fomapan LQR and developed for 14 minutes today. The result is stunning.
No loss in sensitiviy, good contrast from deep black to bright white. Maybe a little bit too long in the developer because the film markings on the edge of the film are very dense.
I will post some pictures as soon I have them digitized.