Berndt
Lifetime Member
Posts: 751
|
Post by Berndt on Mar 10, 2012 6:09:59 GMT -5
O yeah ... a very Happy Birthday from Tokyo too !!!
|
|
Berndt
Lifetime Member
Posts: 751
|
Post by Berndt on Mar 9, 2012 23:17:01 GMT -5
I wonder, if somebody has gadget cameras in his collection. I recently saw a few quite interesting ones in a second hand camera shop ( very old and still based on film ). Didn't buy them though, coz I haven't had the money at the moment, but I have been surpised, that those exists at all. I just have two digital ones, the very first digital camera wrist watch, made by Casio and a pen cam, which I bought last year. The picture quality on the Casion has been more than poor ( just B/W and very tiny ), but I couldn't resist buying it at that time ... and it has been quite expensive The pen cam is capable of recording movies in a higher resolution than HD. However, the quality is poor and the rolling shutter effect pretty annoying. Didn't really use it yet ... but it's a funny gadget and it hasn't been expensive too. So how about you ? Curious to see some 007 stuff from the last decades
|
|
Berndt
Lifetime Member
Posts: 751
|
Post by Berndt on Mar 9, 2012 23:00:29 GMT -5
Wow ... good stuff ... congratulations !!!
|
|
Berndt
Lifetime Member
Posts: 751
|
Post by Berndt on Mar 8, 2012 22:56:33 GMT -5
Mickey,
I am sure, you will find a good online processing service easily. For an ordinary B/W film, the development shouldn't be more than $5 ( plus maybe shipping ).
As for B/W films, the cheapest will usually do ... but there are also quite a few interesting ( and a little bit more expensive ) films around. Two of them are Adox CHS 25 ( app. $3 ), which has superfine grain or the Rollei Retro 80S ( app $3.50 ) ... or maybe an orthochromatic film might be interesting for getting some vintage look.
I also do some post on my pictures as well, but I would say, there are limits. You can't bring things out, which hasn't been captured. B/W films sometimes differ in the way, they capture parts of the visual spectrum. The mentioned Rollei 80S for example is a super-panchromatic film, sensitive up to 750 nm. Especially skin tones are strongly influented by this. Up to a certain level, those effects can also be achieved by using filters ... but I would say "up to a certain level", similar to Photoshop. A filter always takes something away, but does not add. As for an exteme example, I would mention infrared film. A similar effect can be achieved by photoshopping ... but still not really perfect.
Another ( and my favorite ) example is the legendary Kodachrome film ( although not B/W ). I have never seen anybody succeeding in emulating this look neither from another film nor from digital. If anybody find a way, he'll be rich, I guess. But that always shows me, that there are limits. Post on B/W is easier in general though.
Good luck and looking forward to seeing your pictures !!!
|
|
Berndt
Lifetime Member
Posts: 751
|
Post by Berndt on Mar 8, 2012 6:43:17 GMT -5
BTW, Mickey ... my personal film recommendation would be the Kodak E100VS. You will be quite surprised, what your old Kodak Medalist can do then. As I see from the posted pics, the camera ist still working very well. But you might need to hurry up. One of the saddest news these days ... this and other brilliant Kodak films are going to be discontinued. www.mirrorlessrumors.com/kodak-discontinues-their-slide-films/ However, I will definitely put some E100VS in my personal stock before the worse things will happen. There are many good films, depending on the effect, you want to achieve ... but regarding true but vivid colors plus super fine grain, nothing reaches the E100VS ... not even the Fuji Velvia ... in my opinion.
|
|
Berndt
Lifetime Member
Posts: 751
|
Post by Berndt on Mar 8, 2012 4:51:13 GMT -5
WOW I shoot a lot on 120 film, but all developing services here charge the same as for a 35 mm film, which is app. $7 CAN. If it's a special film type ( like a Kodak T-max ), it can be more expensive though. B/W film developments are about $4 CAN. In the end, 120 film is just more expensive ( per picture ), because there are less pictures on a film, but the costs for processing in standard C41 or E6 shouldn't be more expensive. The costs for scanning differ a lot here though ... but $40 is still something. I would check some online services, if your local store intends to rip you off I usually pay 70 cent per frame for a quite good scan in high resolution. I also prefer slide film if possible. The advantage is, you can get you film developed first and see, which pictures are messed up and which are worth a scan. Saves money as well. The most expensive processing, I ever need to be done, has been a Fomapan R, which needed to be sent to a special lab in Europe, because there does not exist any lab in Japan anymore, capable of developing B/W slide films ... but still ... that has been far from $40 CAN.
|
|
Berndt
Lifetime Member
Posts: 751
|
Post by Berndt on Mar 8, 2012 2:44:28 GMT -5
propic.com/23ySJust found it funny and couldn't resist, posting it here without any special reason ;D
|
|
Berndt
Lifetime Member
Posts: 751
|
Post by Berndt on Mar 7, 2012 22:46:44 GMT -5
Dave, I should have been more precisely ... common among professionals. My altime favorite, shot with such an adapter is this one: Technically a little bit outdated by Full Frame DSLRs meanwhile, but I can still see them frequently used by TV teams. They don't use DSLRs yet ( at least here in Japan ), because the editing system of the TV stations still requests tape for recording. The main purpose is film ( in the meaning of "movies" ) though. In the field of photography, it doesn't make that much sense to me. If I want to take pictures with a medium- or large format camera, I would prefer real film instead of trying to capture something from a screen digitally. BTW, this is probably the most famous ( and common among professionals ) maker of those adapters: www.letusdirect.com/
|
|
Berndt
Lifetime Member
Posts: 751
|
Post by Berndt on Mar 7, 2012 6:58:01 GMT -5
It's actually a very common technique. So called 35 mm adapters for camcorders are working like that. The problem of digital photography is still, that there are no large sensors available. The idea has been, projecting the picture on a larger surface ( kind of "milky screens" as TLRs have them as viewfinder ) and capture it from there. The digital camera/camcorder ist just working as recording unit. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Depth-of-field_adapter35 mm adapters are slowly becoming outdated though, with the upcoming video capable full frame DSLRs. However, it's still an interesting idea, but I couldn't manage to get good results yet. Trying to capture something from a viewfinder of a TLR for example, the exposure is not uniformly continiuos. The middle of the the screen appears just as a "big white dot" while the edges are dark. No idea, why this is so Inserted film will be exposed perfectly. I have no techiqual explanations for that
|
|
Berndt
Lifetime Member
Posts: 751
|
Post by Berndt on Mar 5, 2012 12:03:41 GMT -5
Collecting ... of course ... didn't come into my mind
|
|
Berndt
Lifetime Member
Posts: 751
|
Post by Berndt on Mar 5, 2012 10:39:25 GMT -5
The basic question for me is also, WHY people want to use expired film. Is it the hope for getting it cheaper, the longing for using maybe discontinued films still in a few years ... or is it a special look ?
If it is just about getting it cheaper, shortly outdated film might be no problem but 10 years or so ? Like Bob said, there can be some nasty surprises and I already had them as well. Storing film for a later use ? Why not ? If it is stored properly. But some people want expired film for achieving a special look, which is quite popular especially among toy- and lomo-fans. Here it is just about being lucky or unlucky, I think. There are many interesting results, posted by lucky users, but it's a risky thing. I would say, that it is just luck, getting really what you want.
|
|
Berndt
Lifetime Member
Posts: 751
|
Post by Berndt on Mar 4, 2012 23:10:20 GMT -5
Buy some cheap Lucky B/W film. It will expire soon and the look is actually already as if the film would be expired ;D But seriously ... it's the better option for getting an a little bit more vintage or artistic look. Regarding real expired film, I wouldn't use it. It's a risky thing. In many cases, you just get nothing later and not what you want. Considering, that maybe important pictures get lost because of that and you needed to pay for the development as well, I wouldn't do that.
|
|
Berndt
Lifetime Member
Posts: 751
|
Post by Berndt on Mar 4, 2012 23:00:14 GMT -5
Mmmh ... can't see any reason for writing something on the negatives directly. I just put a note on the envelope for each film ( date, camera, event, etc. ) and store them properly. Additionally, all pictures are scanned, but I don't use DVDs as a storage medium, I use harddisks ( usually saving them on 2-3 at the same time in case, one will break ). Data transfer is fast meanwhile and harddisk space costs nothing. If you want to go super safe, make a back up on a virtual disk in the internet ... in case, your house burns down or whatever. Depends on where you live. It's a serious option here in Japan, because of the many earthquakes ... unfortunately.
|
|
Berndt
Lifetime Member
Posts: 751
|
Post by Berndt on Feb 29, 2012 4:22:46 GMT -5
I would say, the "thing" in the red circle doesn't belong to the camera, I think, it's part of the background ... but I don't know, if this would make the identification easier Too less details for really guessing something
|
|
Berndt
Lifetime Member
Posts: 751
|
Post by Berndt on Feb 20, 2012 9:34:28 GMT -5
Yep ... great picture !!! Contrast and tonality ... brilliant.
|
|