lloydy
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Post by lloydy on Oct 26, 2012 16:00:04 GMT -5
I see the American economy is getting some stick again.
( I'll get my coat ;D )
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lloydy
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Posts: 506
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Post by lloydy on Oct 26, 2012 8:29:07 GMT -5
Not such a bad buy then ? it's a nice bit of kit but something I would rarely use, I'll stick with my Dremel.
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lloydy
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Posts: 506
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Post by lloydy on Oct 25, 2012 18:32:40 GMT -5
It's interesting that they were still making folders until the mid 80's, and look what they are doing now ! Maybe not in cameras. but in so much technology they have caught up and in a few instances are now ahead.
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lloydy
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Posts: 506
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Post by lloydy on Oct 25, 2012 18:25:57 GMT -5
I think everyone should own a Dremel. I am not knocking the Dremel. It is an excellent tool. But I bought this Foredom Flexible shaft Machine in 1959. In 1996 the inner cable of the flexible shaft broke. Foredom sent me a replacement no charge. The Foredom has a foot operated variable speed control. Mine came with a set of 7 collets and a device to hold the hand grip in a vice and a hook to raise it well above the work surface rendering it almost weightless. Almost all of my small bits were worn out dental drill bits that my dentist gave to me. There are many accessories made for it and it will accept Dremel's excellent bits. The machine gets a lot of use for all kinds of projects. It is very versatile. The speed control makes it extremely useful. Many jewelers use the Foredom. The picture below is of a more recent model. Mickey I saw one of these for sale recently, I liked it a lot even though it was well used and had no collets or bits. But the price scared me ! Would you believe £150 ? ( UK Pounds )
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lloydy
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Posts: 506
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Post by lloydy on Oct 25, 2012 18:21:44 GMT -5
I had problems with a Pentax battery compartment recently which refused to unscrew, I only use coins to try and unscrew them and I use the biggest I can find that fits the curvature of the slot. With the Pentax, nothing was moving. So I soaked the thread with vinegar for a day guessing that a leaking battery had corroded the threads. I don't soak the camera in vinegar, just turn it upside down and drip a tiny bit around the thread, and wipe it off occasionally and put some fresh on. The next day it came off like it was a new camera.
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lloydy
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Posts: 506
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Post by lloydy on Oct 19, 2012 18:33:11 GMT -5
I'm a retired maintenance engineer, there isn't much I can't get working. But I get my friends 13yo kid to fix my computer ! ;D
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lloydy
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Posts: 506
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Post by lloydy on Oct 18, 2012 18:10:05 GMT -5
I got this camera today, really nice. But....I got kind of a nasty note from the seller telling me I got one helluva deal!!! I told him, "don't list things for .99 cents anymore!". It's not my fault nobody else bid on his camera, is it? ;D ;D I hate guys like that, never happy are they ? Enjoy your bargain !
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lloydy
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Posts: 506
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Post by lloydy on Oct 18, 2012 18:03:45 GMT -5
I don't think Sears ever made a lens, but apparently they sourced and sold some gems. There's been a lot of discussion on other forums about Sears lenses, and most is positive. A look at their brochures from years ago show they sold a big range of gear under their own brand names, it must have been a big seller for them.
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lloydy
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Posts: 506
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Post by lloydy on Oct 17, 2012 15:14:49 GMT -5
OK, PM me if you think the Spottie one might help.
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lloydy
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Posts: 506
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Post by lloydy on Oct 16, 2012 17:31:15 GMT -5
Have you taken any dimensions of the prism ? I've got a ME Super prism in my box of bits, and a dead Zenit somewhere I think.
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lloydy
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Posts: 506
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Post by lloydy on Oct 16, 2012 16:23:30 GMT -5
That's a lovely looking camera, very stylish. And the results are excellent.
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lloydy
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Posts: 506
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Post by lloydy on Oct 16, 2012 13:43:15 GMT -5
With real leather would you only apply the saddle soap to the outer surface, would it make it difficult or even impossible for the glue to stick to if applied to the inner surface ?
I remember when we bought a leather suite a few years ago it had pulled on the seams of a couple of the arms, and the manufacturer sent someone out who applied heat from a hair drier while pushing the leather in the direction it needed to go, and once it had stretched he took away the heat while keeping the stretch on the leather, and it worked. The pull on the seams had gone and it's never come back. Might be worth a try ?
I'm almost certain the 'Serious Glue' made by Evo-Stick is a new version of their old contact adhesives, it's exactly the same to apply and seems to have the same properties - it allows positioning etc. My guess is it's a rebranding excercise.
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lloydy
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Posts: 506
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Post by lloydy on Oct 16, 2012 5:48:05 GMT -5
They do sell Gorilla Glue in the UK, and like Randy I swear by it for shoes, I saved a favorite pair of deck shoes many years ago with it. But I personally wouldn't try it on the camera as Gorilla Glue expands when it cures, I've used it in situations where it has oozed out of the edge of whatever I'm gluing and made a very hard to remove mess. It does however grip like a gorilla ! You say that you've got the panel off, I would certainly scrape the gunk off before re-gluing. Heat from a hair dryer or, as I do, run it under the hot tap, will make gunk removal a lot easier.
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lloydy
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Posts: 506
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Post by lloydy on Oct 15, 2012 16:57:24 GMT -5
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lloydy
Lifetime Member
Posts: 506
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Post by lloydy on Oct 15, 2012 16:15:09 GMT -5
When I reglue leatherette back onto a camera I generally try to remove the piece entirely, then I remove the original adhesive backing from the leatherette. Sometimes this needs careful scraping with a craft knofe. The reason I do this is that I have never found any new adhesive that will stick to the old stuff with any degree of success, the new adhesive might stick to the camera, but not to the old adhesive which is usually some kind of double sided sticky paper / light cloth that's stickier on the leatherette side for easier manufacturing. Once it's cleaned off I re glue with EVO-STICK 'Serious Glue' which comes in small tubes, stays pliable long enough to position the leatherette, and sticks wonderfully. It's also easy to clean any excess away. I used to use Copydex, which is OK, but this stuff is better. Once in position I then get some small bits of foam which I position on the leatherette and hold it all place with many elastic bands, this keeps the pressure on the glued surface. On the film door I use thinner foam and stationary clips. I did a very scruffy looking Chinon and a pair of Pentax's using this method about 18 months and they now look as good as new, and there has been no lifting of the leatherette at all. The 'Serious Glue' is a fairly new product I think, or a remarketing of an old one, and I get it from Tesco's.
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