lloydy
Lifetime Member
Posts: 506
|
Post by lloydy on Nov 24, 2012 17:05:56 GMT -5
I use an Excell spreadsheet, it allows you add fields as you want, it just does the job.
|
|
lloydy
Lifetime Member
Posts: 506
|
Post by lloydy on Nov 24, 2012 11:06:18 GMT -5
Very nice, I like that.
|
|
lloydy
Lifetime Member
Posts: 506
|
Post by lloydy on Nov 24, 2012 11:04:08 GMT -5
|
|
lloydy
Lifetime Member
Posts: 506
|
Post by lloydy on Nov 16, 2012 19:00:01 GMT -5
somewhere.....I have a box full of old 1950's Popular Mechanics and another box of Model Engineer of the same era. There's some wonderful stuff in them. When I find them I'll scan some of the best bits and post it. There is some photography related stuff in them if I remember rightly. I need to climb in the loft space though.
|
|
lloydy
Lifetime Member
Posts: 506
|
Post by lloydy on Nov 14, 2012 17:00:07 GMT -5
I make my own seals from foam that I buy from a big craft chain Hobbycraft, it's 2mm thick in A4 sized sheets called 'Fabfoam' and it's self adhesive. I cut it it into thin - 1mm - strips with a rotary cutter, a craft knife just pulls the foam and it ends up different widths. They also sell sticky backed felt in the same size sheets which I use for the film door seals and the mirror buffers on some cameras, I have used the foam on some of those as well. In the modelling department you'll find a lot of useful tools like small screwdivers and pliers, and picks - the pointed hooks similar to the ones dentists use - that are invaluable for poking around in cameras and poking the strips of foam into the tiny grooves for the light seals. I also get my satin black paint from there as well, it's the Tamiya semi gloss black X-18 that when rubbed gently with a finger as it hardens makes a very good repair paint for most cameras. The rubbing seems to flatten any brush marks there might be and 'ages' the paint finish. I've had excellent results with this paint.
|
|
lloydy
Lifetime Member
Posts: 506
|
Post by lloydy on Nov 13, 2012 11:45:44 GMT -5
I just love the design of those, who cares if it's good or bad as a camera, it's just so cool.
|
|
lloydy
Lifetime Member
Posts: 506
|
Post by lloydy on Nov 11, 2012 12:35:50 GMT -5
I'm also a big fan of Photoscape, the latest version is very good, the other software I really like a lot id Faststone, again it's free. Faststone does everything you need for quick and easy PP, and more advanced if you need it. I really like the interface, just move the mouse cursor to the side edges of the screen and the various menus or exif data appear, and at the top a slideshow of everything in the selected folder. If you use the mouse rather than keyboard shortcuts then this is perfect. I've got Photoshop Elements and the full version, but rarely use either now, they're just big and slow and do far more than I need. If a picture needs that much work then it's probably not worth bothering with.
I find sharpening film scans is very difficult, the film grain reacts differently to digital noise in most software, but Topaz Denoise seems to be the best at it.
|
|
lloydy
Lifetime Member
Posts: 506
|
Post by lloydy on Nov 11, 2012 12:23:00 GMT -5
I gave up on Photobucket ages ago, the speed dropped dramatically, but the annoying adverts didn't !
|
|
lloydy
Lifetime Member
Posts: 506
|
Post by lloydy on Nov 8, 2012 17:24:22 GMT -5
I always lusted after a T90 when I had my A1's and AE1's. Perhaps it's time to get one?
|
|
lloydy
Lifetime Member
Posts: 506
|
Post by lloydy on Nov 3, 2012 19:41:17 GMT -5
I've had just the opposite experience with blended lens glasses. Mine are ground with a fairly large "reading" area. The change from the distance prescription to the reading prescription is gradual and seamless, giving me , in effect, a set of blended trii-focals. I adapted almost instantly to them and would not even consider any other type of glasses. I just assumed that this was the norm, but apparently I was wrong. (never happened before!! ;D) However, I did spend quite a bit of money on them, but have never regretted it. The only issue I have with them when using a camera is that I got the light sensitive lenses and they get so dark in direct sunlight that even my Fujica's finder looks dim! I am due for a new prescription, and I will get the same type of lenses again, and have them put in the same titanium frames, which have proven virtually indestructible. That's saying a lot, because I am extremely hard on glasses! That's the important thing if you are going to get varifocal lenses ( no line) Once I'd demanded they change the tiny reading area lens for a bigger one I had no problem at all with them, I wear them every moment I'm awake. Also beware that the shops will try to fit varifocal lenses into fashionable small frames, they don't work either, to get the lenses into the small frames they make the reading area tiny, and when you complain they say "well there's nothing we can do because you've chosen a small frame sir" I got bigger frames and lenses, it took a while and a lot of arguing with the manager, but I got them. ;D
|
|
lloydy
Lifetime Member
Posts: 506
|
Post by lloydy on Nov 2, 2012 19:17:35 GMT -5
High street and big chain opticians will nearly always give you varifocals with the smallest possible close / reading element. It's cheaper. Go back and give them hell until the make it clear just how big that element is, and if it is the smallest possible tell them it's not good enough. I won't use the big chain opticians any more for this reason, they promise all kinds of deals and free second pairs. It's bullnuts, they sell cheap lenses and make massive profits. Can you tell I've had this same problem in the past?
|
|
lloydy
Lifetime Member
Posts: 506
|
Post by lloydy on Oct 31, 2012 9:23:18 GMT -5
There's a guy who had the last laugh. What a great story.
|
|
lloydy
Lifetime Member
Posts: 506
|
Post by lloydy on Oct 29, 2012 19:32:42 GMT -5
About 450 BC for the principle and 1000 AD for the practical camera obscura. What we should speak of here is the photographic camera i.e. one used to make an image on light sensitive paper. There is a camera obscura near the castle in Edinburgh www.camera-obscura.co.uk/Dave. There's on a lot closer to you at Aberystwyth. www.aberystwythcliffrailway.co.uk/things-to-doIt's very good, and well worth visiting as the cliff railway is a great bit of engineering as well.
|
|
lloydy
Lifetime Member
Posts: 506
|
Post by lloydy on Oct 29, 2012 19:26:59 GMT -5
I have a lot of family in Toronto and up in Nova Scotia, it might have died off before it gets up there, we can only hope it passes without doing too much harm to anyone in its path.
|
|
lloydy
Lifetime Member
Posts: 506
|
Post by lloydy on Oct 27, 2012 17:35:56 GMT -5
With Vulcanite finishes, vulcanised rubber, like Leica and Russian cameras, you can use the car treatment for restoring Black vinyl bumpers and trim. Rub on and buff away, dependant on the type. Best not cleaned with acetone, as it can dissolve the finish. Black spirit wood stain can restore sun faded Vulcanite back to black, with heated beeswax to finish and seal. Stephen. 'Back to black' - good stuff.
|
|