truls
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Posts: 568
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Post by truls on Sept 27, 2012 1:06:24 GMT -5
I could make a bid of 3000 krona ($500). Most likely at Swedish auctions the price will not exceed this. I get the "Leica" and can examine the camera or disassemble and post pictures to find out if its for real. If its a genuine Leica I get happy, Or, I end up collecting fake leicas.... A learning experience?
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truls
Lifetime Member
Posts: 568
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Post by truls on Sept 26, 2012 16:42:46 GMT -5
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truls
Lifetime Member
Posts: 568
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Post by truls on Sept 26, 2012 16:23:03 GMT -5
Thanks for your most kind advice. I have written to the person owning the Leica, if he can provide more information of where the camera comes from and so, will wait for an answer. Most likely I will skip this camera. It could look like a modified Fed, but I am not qualified to judge this. And yes, if its a real Leica 1 the price would have been higher.
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truls
Lifetime Member
Posts: 568
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Post by truls on Sept 26, 2012 11:25:01 GMT -5
Lucky you having charity shops around... The lens must be needing a trailer to carry. The bokeh looks smooth.
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truls
Lifetime Member
Posts: 568
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Post by truls on Sept 26, 2012 10:58:07 GMT -5
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truls
Lifetime Member
Posts: 568
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Post by truls on Sept 26, 2012 10:52:01 GMT -5
Very nice cameras. Do you sit up all night browsing the bay?
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truls
Lifetime Member
Posts: 568
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Post by truls on Sept 25, 2012 12:27:36 GMT -5
Taken this morning over the Downs near Bluebell Hill, on a Butchers Ensign 6x9 press reflex on Agfa RC soft paper, processed in tray, dried and re-photographed with digital camera, then reversed and contrast cleaned up, and sepia added, in the Gimp. Stephen I like your work and the picture. It is very interesting. I had a nice darkroom 25 years ago, I will have to find a spare room in our house set up now...
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truls
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Posts: 568
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Post by truls on Sept 24, 2012 15:25:30 GMT -5
Stephen: You are THE man!! What a great idea to use paper directly in the camera. I will be busy the next days Again, thanks!
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truls
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Posts: 568
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Post by truls on Sept 24, 2012 14:38:46 GMT -5
General comment for anybody using large sizes above 120.........as well as Truis, I do not know his level of expertise in films...... Hope this helps, Stephen. Thanks for your helpful advice. This may be a dumb question. As it is room to place a film in size 120x95mm, could this be done in a darkroom, then take a picture and develop the negative?
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truls
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Posts: 568
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Post by truls on Sept 24, 2012 14:19:15 GMT -5
Truls, Almost every Zeiss Ikon camera (pre-war and BRD post-war) is characterized with a body number consisting of a letter followed by 5 digits max (99999). Hans There is a number under the camera, here it is:
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truls
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Posts: 568
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Post by truls on Sept 24, 2012 10:50:26 GMT -5
A quick question, which film to use on Glunz model 300? Thers is a film spool, indicating 9x12 roll film. Here is a picture of the back:
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truls
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Posts: 568
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Post by truls on Sept 24, 2012 10:48:55 GMT -5
Nice cameras guys, anyone willing to share the bodynumbers (lens data on the Glunz) with me?? Tnx, Hans May be I misunderstood your request, is it all productions numbers or this camera?
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truls
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Posts: 568
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Post by truls on Sept 24, 2012 10:40:11 GMT -5
Do I recognise the Zeiss Tenax camera from Ebay UK by any chance, a recent purchase?, it seems to have the same missing wind on flap on the main lever. Genuine parts might be difficult, but a metal part could be made from stainless steel to get the best match to the camera finish. Pictures of the Tenax on the net show the missing tip, it was quite common for them to go missing. No, I got the cameras from tradera.com, a Swedish ebay. I did not made my homework, so I did not recognize the missing Tenax part. Thanks to Mickey for the Tenax picture I may be able to get it restored some way! The camera works never the less as it should.
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truls
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Posts: 568
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Post by truls on Sept 24, 2012 8:11:44 GMT -5
Today I got three packages in the mail, it was almost like christmas eve Here are the cameras: Agfa Isolette: Zeiss Ikon Tenax: This camera has the negative format 24x24. It is a very small camera. Glunz model 300: I know almost nothing about these cameras, the Glunz is from 1920 or something, the Tenax from late 1930. I will test all cameras, I will come back with some test images. All cameras seems to work, but light leaks may of course appear. The Gluns is large format 9x12, and has a Carl Zeiss Jena Tessar lens (f=13,5cm 1:.6.3), I assume the images will be sharp. Folded the Glunz is almost "pocketable". A pocket LF.
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truls
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Posts: 568
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Post by truls on Sept 24, 2012 7:32:49 GMT -5
> olroy2044: "Welcome to the group!" > Stephen: If it is the filter, etc., why is it only on the right hand side? I am assuming that the shot is the whole negative, how was it scanned? But then you say it is confined to one lens, sounds like an element has come loose, or the mount is off the centre line, but either should be very obvious indeed. What Nikon body is the lens being used on? ....I am assuming it is on a non digital body as the shot is in B/W. If the shot is now decent scan, the vignetting marks can be removed totally in Photoshop, or The Gimp. > peltigera: On the original picture - is the filter on cross-threaded? > Wayne: You must have been stopped down to a very small aperture. If you were using a filter, my suspicion would be the same as Peltigera's--that it was cross threaded. > daveh: Photoshop can rescue those corners, but it would be good not to have to bother. I have taken the picture with a Nikkormat FT2, but the Nikkormat FTn produces same results. Here is the lens on FT2: The lens looks almost unused to me, and came from ebay. The seller have a 100% positive feedback, but it could be sold due to a defect not noticeable unless tested? Thanks for the warm welcome, olroy! The scan is not the problem, as this lens only gives this problem. The filter is proper mounted and aligned. The lens hood is original Nikon for the Nikkor-H 28mm. It may be som internal defect, as mentioned (loose element). The lens was stopped down to f.11, it should not be a problem, but who knows. I might have to do some testing without filter, lens hood, trying all apertures and then investigate... I can remove the vignetting in GIMP, as I use GIMP as only photo tool. About GIMP, I also use GIMP as I also are on Linux (since 1994). When I started using GIMP it was overwhelming number of menus/features/choices and it was unfamiliar. Later I started to learn one thing and proctice on this one feature. When mastered, I went on to the next learning topic. Today, I use only a few functions, as the healing tool to correct dust and defects in the photo, cutting and cropping, converting color photo to BW, adjust colors and a few more. Using tutorials is our friend learning GIMP. Users of Mac also can install GIMP. Thanks for all the answers!
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