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Post by lesdmess on Aug 22, 2015 17:21:18 GMT -5
The 55mm f2.2 lens made available at that time is quite a performer. Following examples all taken on Kodak Gold 100. Except for the last one, all with this lens. The 10 blades forms very nice OOF It is very sharp with lovely color and contrast results. And of course any M42 lens works just fine with it like the Takumar 17mm f4 fisheye. I am comfortable metering daylight scenes now so shooting without TTL meter is easy. Of course the latitude of negatives makes this a no brainer really. Good luck with your search as I am also looking for an early Leica M or a Nikon.
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Post by lesdmess on Aug 21, 2015 22:13:58 GMT -5
The selenium meter in my 1959 Baldamatic I is dead on accurate and the rest of the camera itself is fully functional. Likely hardly used and kept in the case in the box all those years.
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Post by lesdmess on Aug 21, 2015 22:07:15 GMT -5
Just to make amends for my faux pas, here are my others of that period - but maybe not my Luftwaffe Leica . . . The Baldamatic I is pretty cool since it is fully functional and the selenium meter is still dead on accurate.
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Post by lesdmess on Aug 20, 2015 21:32:37 GMT -5
Have you considered the 1957 Asahi Pentax - as reviewd in Cameraquest? Ad from January 1958 Modern Photography that has the review in it. I took a picture of mine and inserted it in the ad . . . ;-) It is quite a looker and except for lack of metering - with a clear bright near lifesize unobstructed viewfinder, it is a very good everyday shooter. Please excuse my intrusion as I just realized this is a rangefinder forum.
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Post by lesdmess on Aug 16, 2015 2:35:37 GMT -5
I use a mild citrus cleaner. After 10 years, I see no ill effects. Nice XE-7 by the way, I have 2 and an XE-5 also. I also like the black prism on chrome body - often referred to as the "panda" look. lesdmess: Your XE-7 looks like it is in great shape. I am very happy with mine. You have to look very close to see any worn paint. The film advance is very smooth on mine also. Thanks as I was fortunate to get not only that camera in great cosmetic condition but it is also fully functioning and accurate.
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Post by lesdmess on Aug 13, 2015 16:38:09 GMT -5
Thank you Mickey, I will try that. The XE-7 is a camera I wanted for a long time. I still can't believe the paint looks so good. Dennis The XE-7 is a very desirable camera and has the smoothest film advance in my collection.
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Post by lesdmess on Jul 9, 2015 17:42:25 GMT -5
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Post by lesdmess on Jul 8, 2015 15:02:40 GMT -5
It is a good idea to make sure the lenses and accessories you need are available for what you need now and in the future. I also prefer a battery independent camera but for a manual focus camera, I also prefer a bright viewfinder and large magnification. Well built, good size and weight are nice too. Pentax LX & MX are a good complimentary pair. The MX is battery independent except for meter and so compact - but with the largest viewfinder, that there is no reason never to take it with you. The LX is the most compact interchangeable viewfinder camera that is practically the size of the other brands smaller fixed viewfinder bodies. It is best for more technical photography due to a wide selection of viewfinders and focusing screens. Of course having TTL flash, a one of a kind metering system, aperture priority with a wide range of shutter speeds available when batteries die comes in handy.
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Post by lesdmess on Jun 10, 2015 9:34:19 GMT -5
Someone commented an the film "best camera" thread that the good thing about film is that it has more latitude. I really have to disagree with that. I have digital images--especially RAW ones, that almost look black. But Photoshop or Nikon Capture NX2 reveal there is a lot of detail lurking in that darkness--much more than one would find in an underexposed slide of color negative. W. Here are some tests I have done regarding latitude of film (C41) compared to digital. Most C41 and b&w film have considerable overexposure advantage over all current digital sensors as exemplified below - even when using RAW. I have done this same test with other current DSLRs - like the Nikon D800, with the same results. Knowing the characteristics of each individual film, I can then use it in practical applications as follows. Say I come upon a scene and wanted to smooth out the water flow. My camera meters the scene at 1/60 but I really need 1/2 or 1 second but I don't have the appropriate ND filters so I simply overexpose by 5 or 6 stops knowing I can still get good results such as shown below. Kodak Ektar 100 overexposed by 5 stops. Scanned with minimal post processing. Kodak Portra 400 latitude offers recovery of dark areas (radiator) and highlights (map).
I have done similar tests with numerous other film types/brands so I know what I can expect to get out of them given certain lighting conditions.
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Post by lesdmess on Jun 10, 2015 9:14:24 GMT -5
I have to honestly say that, after having used most of Canon's best FD SLRs, that my favorite is still the Original F-1 -- the second version, to be specific, often referred to as the F-1n. The FTb taught me photography, but with the F-1 I got to explore it to the fullest. The FTb didn't lack for much - in terms of specs, compared to the F-1n. Obviously if you need the viewfinders and other accessories only available to the F-1n that can make a difference while the FTb has that very functional QL.
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Post by lesdmess on Jun 10, 2015 9:04:55 GMT -5
Congrats on your good fortune. The Contax 139 is the only model I have even a passing familiarity with. I knew a guy who owned one and he loved it. He would also go on and on about the quality of the Contax lenses. What I remember most clearly about it is it had one of the smoothest film wind cranks I'd ever stroked. Made my A-1's stroke feel positively barbaric in comparison. These days I have one camera that I feel rivals the 139 in a buttery smooth winding stroke, and that is the Minolta MD-11 ( MD-7 in Europe, MD in Japan). Did you mean the Minolta XD-11 in the US, XD-7 in Europe and XD in Japan?
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Post by lesdmess on Jun 6, 2015 18:18:37 GMT -5
Because it's getting harder and harder to find labs that process film anymore, and because developing costs are increasing, I've taken up developing my own color films, in addition to B&W, which I've been developing myself since the 80s. To me, it isn't difficult developing color film, whether E-6 or C-41, with my setup, which allows me to keep close control of developing temperatures. And it's saving me a bundle, without having to sacrifice a bit of quality. Okay, I've blathered on enough. See y'all on the boards. Welcome aboard! Perhaps you can even cover your experience with developing your own E-6 and C-41 - setup and potential pitfalls?
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Post by lesdmess on Jun 6, 2015 18:16:13 GMT -5
Currently in Maine...moving to Bernalillo NM in a couple of months...I don't collect cameras so much as search out characteristics, make a purchase, try them out, and move them along... Welcome aboard! What if you encounter a camera with unique characteristics, do you still move them along?
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Post by lesdmess on May 28, 2015 12:57:36 GMT -5
I would be interested to know if other members use their cameras or just display them. Welcome aboard! I present a third option, use our cameras and display them as they are a sight to behold . . . Taken with one of my many film cameras - in this case another Pentax LX, using Kodak TMAX100 processed and scanned at home.
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Post by lesdmess on May 22, 2015 13:45:06 GMT -5
I am with the others, you have a very nice collection. Are they usable?
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