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Post by Stuart Walker on Nov 6, 2010 15:53:18 GMT -5
I could have done with those boxes of springs your camera repair man had. Anyway after mangling the original spring I made another from an old compression spring which had thicker wire, hence a stiffer spring. This only required a part of a turn to get sufficient tension, instead of a complete turn, which made it easier to fit the cocking lever. This seems to work alright except the tension on the self timer cam is a bit too great so that it doesn't always run. I can live without the self timer.
By the way I did clean the shutter blades and the timer escapement so that wasn't the problem. There just wasn't enough force in the cocking lever to make the shutter run. The speeds sound approximately right. The shutter is in a Baldinette, so once I've cleaned the glass I'll have to see if it works! It's got a Radionar lens, which I believe is one of the better triplets, but will presumably work better stopped down.
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Post by Stuart Walker on Nov 5, 2010 13:45:16 GMT -5
Thanks for replies. I'm familiar with Daniel Mitchell's site, it is very useful. I think I could eventually get the thing back, but it occurs to me that in the factory they must have had a better way. I've got a copy of a factory service manual, but it just says replace the spring! The problem is twisting it around to get some torque into the spring without the end slipping out or the catch hair spring dislodging. I had to take it off because this hairspring was broken, and it seemed to have a turn of spring twist in it. The spring wire is quite thin compared to some others so it needs more twist to get enough torque into it.
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Post by Stuart Walker on Nov 5, 2010 5:36:32 GMT -5
Is there any trick to winding up the torsion spring on the cocking lever and not knocking off the hairspring on the swinging latch at the same time and getting the lever down onto its post with everything lined up at the time?
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Post by Stuart Walker on Jun 13, 2010 8:30:09 GMT -5
Anybody know if a Vito BL ever ready case would fit a Vitomatic IIA camera? (I guess I would need to make an aperture in the bottom to see the frame counter, but from photograhs of both cameras it seems that it might work).
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Post by Stuart Walker on Mar 20, 2010 17:45:15 GMT -5
Keith South of The Living Image Camera Museum licm.org.uk/ kindly sent me some instructions and photos. The second element unscrews out with its holder, but was quite tight. I was able to grip it in a three jaw lathe chuck. There is another ring with slots underneath that which releases the front plate.
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Post by Stuart Walker on Mar 7, 2010 13:40:58 GMT -5
Has anyone experience of getting inside the above shutter? I've removed teh shutter from the camera, removed front and back lens elements, but there is no ring evident in the front to get further in. There is a black cover ring with the infinity stop in it, which I assume has to be removed. However it is not obvious how it comes off. Does the infinity stop hold the ring on, and if it does how is the stop fixed on?
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Post by Stuart Walker on Sept 14, 2009 7:43:08 GMT -5
I have a Flexaret vii TLR with a Pentacon Prestor shutter which has something similar. Were the shutters made by the same firm, or the same design? Both E. Germany and Czechoslovakia were in the Soviet bloc at the time.
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Post by Stuart Walker on Aug 28, 2009 4:22:25 GMT -5
Well it was an adjustment needed. There is a round push rod that pushes the latch for the wind knob and this barely pushed it far enough for its latch to operate when you pushed the shutter button. The rod had wound wire stops, like tightly coiled springs around the rod and you could adjust it by moving these on the rod. After that I had to bend the shutter lever a little because that latch tripped before the knob interlock, but it seems to work reliably now.
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Post by Stuart Walker on Aug 26, 2009 4:33:19 GMT -5
Yes, I've tried wiggling the rewind knob, it doesn't seem to have any effect. When you presss the shutter release you can hear something reset, sometimes it sounds sluggish. I'm guessing it doesn't quite go all the way to release the rewind knob. I've run a film through and I only got 11 exposures although the counter went from 1 to 12. The frame spacing was a little irregular. I initially tried it out with just the old paper backing, and I thought that maybe the extra thickness of the film might make a difference, but it didn't seem to. It seems connected to the frame spacing because the problem will either occur with the first few frames and then it will go alright or conversely strat off alright but then will occur with the last few frames. I think I will probably need to clean and lubricate the transport mechanism. Anybody taken one of these apart before?
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Post by Stuart Walker on Aug 24, 2009 12:14:11 GMT -5
My recently acquired Flexaret 7 sometimes locks the wind on knob after firing the shutter. If you jab the shutter button a few times then it will eventually unlock. I guess it's some sort of timing issue with the interlocks. Anyone have any advice as to what to look for? Presumably the left hand side of the camera has to be removed to access the mechanism? Does the wind on knob or anything have to be removed?
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Post by Stuart Walker on May 13, 2009 7:16:33 GMT -5
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Post by Stuart Walker on Feb 28, 2009 6:21:22 GMT -5
I've got a Yashica Lynx 1000 which had sticky aperture blades. I've fixed that but now I've gone and broken the cocking mechanism in the shutter, by checking it without putting those little C clips back on the shaft, (I could do with a couple of those on account of they cracked which is why I didn't replace them). It jumped forward and pulled the rivetted catch off the bottom of the cam inside. Now I can probably rivet it back but, how is the little spring that operates the catch arranged, and how does one wing up that large spring around the cocking shaft?
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Post by Stuart Walker on Jan 17, 2009 16:12:12 GMT -5
Thanks, I've sent them the question. I'll see what turns up!
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Post by Stuart Walker on Jan 17, 2009 12:06:22 GMT -5
No, the big one on the bottom that holds the 4 AA batteries. The remote socket is in that part, according to the T90 repair manual. As far as I can see you have to peel off the ribbed rubber off the bottom and some of the handgrip. I think that you should be able to get at the wires that go from the socket to the circuit board. However I don't know how delicate an operation that is, there are obviously connections from the main batteries to the inside of the camera as well.
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Post by Stuart Walker on Jan 17, 2009 10:48:54 GMT -5
Mickey, if it works then it isn't immoral! Maybe someone else out there knows all about Canon T90s? Anyway I'll just use the self timer for the moment. If I feel brave I might fetch the battery box off to have a look see. Anyone have experience of removing it?
Stuart
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